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  1. #11
    Senior Member
    WayneF's Avatar

    Re: Birds in flight 10 tips

    As an alternative, some users for some events, maybe sports or birds, like to set camera Manual mode, maybe f/5.6 at 1/500 second... so they absolutely know what settings the picture will use. Then they set Auto ISO, the idea being that if f/5.6 1/500 is not sufficient, then Auto ISO will increase until it is...

    My point of mentioning it is that 1) this is no different than camera A mode with f/5.6 and and 1/500 second Minimum shutter speed in Auto ISO, when both are using f/5.6 and 1/500 at higher ISO values. However M mode between ISO 100 to ISO 3200 is only 5 stops of possible range, over six stops.

    And 2) the camera A mode plan has some extra backup capability of letting the shutter still go faster or slower, as opposed to the alternate result of an underexposed picture when maximum ISO is not sufficient, or overexposed result when minimum ISO is too much for the settings. The M mode case is cute, but it is simply additional restrictions.

    Of course, as always, it is important to constantly pay attention to what is happening. If we find our ISO is always higher than best, we can reconsider the settings forcing it there.

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    Last edited by WayneF; 06-23-2015 at 03:01 PM.

  2. #12
    Senior Member
    Stoshowicz's Avatar

    Re: Birds in flight 10 tips

    Ten tips,
    Never use anything on auto, you fight the cameras software rather than get an intuitive understanding of whats going on
    start with iso 800, an aperture of 8, shutterspeed of 2000th of a sec or faster, minus one exposure compensation , (with a raw file) when the sun is up ,, then adapt
    Check each set of pics as you go , slightly underexposed is better
    Set your camera up to do backbutton focus , take three shots , refocus take more if you have time
    set your camera to do focus priority release of shutter
    dont kid yourself that you are going to be able to focus on the eye of the bird
    understand that a backlit photo will never have the nice look you prefer , so shoot the bird when she is banking or the best light available
    Dont keep photos of the rear end of the bird, if youre too late , just accept it like a man
    Have in your mind a no-fly zone, which is to say , any moving bird in that sector ,, which should be the direction of good lighting, is going to get shot down
    Dont keep photos of the rear end of the bird, if youre too late , just accept it like a man
    Thanks/Like Roy1961 Thanks/liked this post

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  3. #13
    Senior Member

    Re: Birds in flight 10 tips

    Interesting article, even if I do not shoot birds much

  4. #14
    Senior Member

    Re: Birds in flight 10 tips

    Manual mode with Auto ISO is the ticket for wildlife and birds. Adjust speed as needed, increase depth of field when needed, let Auto ISO handle itself. Then I use exposure comp to handle the varying light conditions.

    Shooting birds in flight at 1/500 is a recipe for frustration as you review your blurry images. In very low light. I'll go as low as 1/1000 but, as soon as light permits I want 1/1600 or higher.

    Aperture is also important. In low light wide open is a must to keep ISO low. As the light intensifies, I try to stop down a little. If I can get to F8 or F9 I'm happy. Stopping down assists your autofocus by giving you a little deeper depth of field. There is more room to get the subject in focus.

    I keep an eye on ISO. But anywhere between 100 and 5000 on my D500, I'm comfortable. I may let it go higher if the subject is of special interest. The other benefit to Auto ISO is that it also LOWERS ISO whenever possible!

    The adjustment I make most often is Exposure Comp. Dark backgrounds, negative exposure comp, light background or sky, positive comp.

    This isn't the end all be all but it's working well for me.
    Last edited by [email protected]; 03-28-2018 at 03:17 PM.
    Thanks/Like canuck257, Kevin H, cbg, grandpaw, Stoshowicz, RickMac906, mikew Thanks/liked this post
    Nikon D500, D7200 Sigma 11-20 Pro f/2.8. Nikkor 18-140 VR. Sigma 150-600 Contemporary
    Nikkor 200-400mm VR1 f/4
    My Flickr page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

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