Soccer Photography Question

hark

hark

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A neighbor has two kiddos who play soccer (different age groups), and since their family has been helpful with snow removal during the winter, I told them I'd like to take soccer photos. There are multiple fields side-by-side so the only access would be from one end where one of the goals is located. Since there isn't any access from the sidelines, would the D500 with a 70-200mm be okay, or should I add my 1.4x TC for a little extra reach? I'd rather be set ahead of time rather than to have to remove my lens out in the field - if at all possible. ;) Thanks. :)
 
nikonpup

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What software do you use for photo processing? Photoshop new enhance may be of help.
I cannot believe there are no sidelines. Go to the soccer field and take some pictures with the kids or family members.
 
BackdoorArts

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Shooting from the end actually isn't so bad, particularly with soccer, because most of what happens midfield is just kids running to one of the ends. When my brother shot soccer and football for the newspapers he would always set up in the end zone. From behind the end line you get them running toward you, from the corner you get shots on goal. A 70-200mm will be fine for a lot of it, but I'd bring a small bag with the TC and the 300mm just in case.

Set up behind the goal the kids you want to shoot will be running towards, then swap ends at the half. Figure out which side of center they play and grab that corner. Or if they're fullbacks or goalie then stay on their end.
 
hark

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nikonpup said:
What software do you use for photo processing? Photoshop new enhance may be of help.
I cannot believe there are no sidelines. Go to the soccer field and take some pictures with the kids or family members.
Click to expand...

I use PCC 2018. The newest version requires more RAM than this Windows 7 PC can handle. No family members anywhere nearby although I might go and take a look thru my viewfinder to see how close or far things look. Thanks, nikonpup.

BackdoorArts said:
Shooting from the end actually isn't so bad, particularly with soccer, because most of what happens midfield is just kids running to one of the ends. When my brother shot soccer and football for the newspapers he would always set up in the end zone. From behind the end line you get them running toward you, from the corner you get shots on goal. A 70-200mm will be fine for a lot of it, but I'd bring a small bag with the TC and the 300mm just in case.

Set up behind the goal the kids you want to shoot will be running towards, then swap ends at the half. Figure out which side of center they play and grab that corner. Or if they're fullbacks or goalie then stay on their end.
Click to expand...

I just don't know if I can move from one end to the other. The far end is close to a stand of trees. Since I've never been there during their games, I have no idea whether they allow people on the other end. :(

Good idea on taking the 300mm and TC. I have a Think Tank holster and belt. I can put the extra lens in the holster and just wear the camera/lens combo. Would you say 1/2000"? They don't move as fast as birds, but because they will be a lot closer, I know a faster shutter speed will probably be better. Thanks for your input, Jake.
 
B

BeegRhob

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Hark,
I haven't really been much of a soccer fan, but don't the teams switch goals at halftime or after the quarter? If you can go to a big box store, go out away from the building and shoot pics of people if they are any that far away, or vehicles that are about the right height as people and that should help gauge what they will look like through your lens. From one side to the other should be close to the right distance and if you want to be more precise, measure a parking space and count out what you want for distance. You know, we all want to see your results! ;)

Rob
 
BackdoorArts

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hark said:
Would you say 1/2000"? They don't move as fast as birds, but because they will be a lot closer, I know a faster shutter speed will probably be better. Thanks for your input, Jake.
Click to expand...

It depends on what you're trying to get. It's a tougher as but for sports I like the shot to convey the action of the moment (not that I shoot a lot of sports) so I'd try and track the subject at a slightly slower shutter speed to show the motion. Also smaller apertures so it doesn't look like a good cell phone pick. You've got a fair amount of time so just shoot whatever's in front of you and see what you came up with while they're at the other end. And just do some searches on "soccer photography". I found this page with tips. They say to stay at 1/800s and above, so given that you're dealing with kids you're probably good there. But again, try and adjust.
 
Peter7100

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Good to see kids in the US are playing football :encouragement: (not soccer ;))

I would suggest look for situations where players come together, like trying to head the ball and sliding tackles, which both make for great action shots. Also shots of the goalkeeper diving to save the ball.
 
hark

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BeegRhob said:
Hark,
I haven't really been much of a soccer fan, but don't the teams switch goals at halftime or after the quarter? If you can go to a big box store, go out away from the building and shoot pics of people if they are any that far away, or vehicles that are about the right height as people and that should help gauge what they will look like through your lens. From one side to the other should be close to the right distance and if you want to be more precise, measure a parking space and count out what you want for distance. You know, we all want to see your results! ;)

Rob
Click to expand...

I'm looking to create a couple of different effects. Photoshop Elements used to have this built in as an easy method (rather than doing it manually). I still have Elements 10 on this PC so might give it a go. It's called the Pop Out Effect. Here is an image from https://www.photoshopessentials.com/photo-effects/pop-out/

final-result.jpg

Another effect I want to try - although I don't know if it will work with the background constantly changing - is when the camera is stationary yet multiple images are taken of someone running horizontally through the frame. Then the images are compiled into a composite. So it shows motion but not motion blur. People do that with moon images to show how the moon tracks during the night. Unfortunately I cannot come up with a sample image because I don't know what it's called. However, I've seen it done with kids running into a parent's arms.
 
hark

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BackdoorArts said:
It depends on what you're trying to get. It's a tougher as but for sports I like the shot to convey the action of the moment (not that I shoot a lot of sports) so I'd try and track the subject at a slightly slower shutter speed to show the motion. Also smaller apertures so it doesn't look like a good cell phone pick. You've got a fair amount of time so just shoot whatever's in front of you and see what you came up with while they're at the other end. And just do some searches on "soccer photography". I found this page with tips. They say to stay at 1/800s and above, so given that you're dealing with kids you're probably good there. But again, try and adjust.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link, Jake. It has some helpful info. I did do an online search but didn't quite find the info I wanted. This is appreciated! :)
 
hark

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Peter7100 said:
Good to see kids in the US are playing football :encouragement: (not soccer ;))

I would suggest look for situations where players come together, like trying to head the ball and sliding tackles, which both make for great action shots. Also shots of the goalkeeper diving to save the ball.
Click to expand...

Haha! I know some countries call it football. Will keep these suggestions in mind. :)
 
B

BeegRhob

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hark said:
Another effect I want to try - although I don't know if it will work with the background constantly changing - is when the camera is stationary yet multiple images are taken of someone running horizontally through the frame. Then the images are compiled into a composite. So it shows motion but not motion blur. People do that with moon images to show how the moon tracks during the night. Unfortunately I cannot come up with a sample image because I don't know what it's called. However, I've seen it done with kids running into a parent's arms.
Click to expand...

Do you mean double (multiple) exposure? I used to see high school senior pics that were done with the technique, and Glamour Shots. Multiple exposure shots can be done in camera with some Nikon cameras, the info on nikonusa.com that I read, that I should have copied the link, mentioned a D850. It can also be done with photoshop and I am sure other "post" programs.

Rob
 
hark

hark

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BeegRhob said:
Do you mean double (multiple) exposure? I used to see high school senior pics that were done with the technique, and Glamour Shots. Multiple exposure shots can be done in camera with some Nikon cameras, the info on nikonusa.com that I read, that I should have copied the link, mentioned a D850. It can also be done with photoshop and I am sure other "post" programs.

Rob
Click to expand...

I cannot figure out how to embed a 500px image here. This is similar to what I'd like to try except the first images of the person would be somewhat transparent. Each image would become less and less transparent until the final image is completely solid. It still might not make sense, but until I can find an image to represent what I want, I'm not sure I can offer any additional details.

https://500px.com/photo/98119113/Kick-it-by-Franz-Till?ctx_page=1&from=search&ctx_type=photos&ctx_q=sports+multiple+exposure




 
Spottydumplings

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hark said:
I cannot figure out how to embed a 500px image here. This is similar to what I'd like to try except the first images of the person would be somewhat transparent. Each image would become less and less transparent until the final image is completely solid. It still might not make sense, but until I can find an image to represent what I want, I'm not sure I can offer any additional details.

https://500px.com/photo/98119113/Kick-it-by-Franz-Till?ctx_page=1&from=search&ctx_type=photos&ctx_q=sports+multiple+exposure
Click to expand...

Hi Cindy, If I am reading it right effectively what you are wanting to do is a time lapse in a single frame... I found this, which is centred around a landscape image but would have thought that the processing steps would be similar for action shots:

https://digital-photography-school.com/compress-time-one-photo/

Hope that this might help; at least it might give you a starting point for further searches:encouragement:.
 
blackstar

blackstar

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I think Spotty's "time-lapse" process suggestion is what can be used to accomplish Cindy's quest. I use Gimp with "layer mask" to make one (not perfect due to changing background and focal distance for each individual shot):

2020-12-29_14-42-41 (2)-blend2-s.jpg
 
hark

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Spottydumplings said:
Hi Cindy, If I am reading it right effectively what you are wanting to do is a time lapse in a single frame... I found this, which is centred around a landscape image but would have thought that the processing steps would be similar for action shots:

https://digital-photography-school.com/compress-time-one-photo/

Hope that this might help; at least it might give you a starting point for further searches:encouragement:.
Click to expand...

blackstar said:
I think Spotty's "time-lapse" process suggestion is what can be used to accomplish Cindy's quest. I use Gimp with "layer mask" to make one (not perfect due to changing background and focal distance for each individual shot):

View attachment 355081
Click to expand...

Time lapse might be what it's called. Although I've never done it, I know the individual layers have to be added into one PCC file. Then a layer mask needs to be added to each layer to mask out what isn't wanted. However, unlike regular time lapses, the background will constantly change so I'm not sure whether it will work well, or if it will be a big headache to attempt. Lol.

I couldn't come up with the name of the process to explain my intentions so thank you! :)
 
blackstar

blackstar

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Hi Cindy, I found another possibility to achieve what you want by using "layer blending" in either PS or Gimp (check this: https://docs.gimp.org/en/gimp-concepts-layer-modes.html). In Gimp, you use "Normal" mode to blend two layers. For your purpose, you need to change the background of all individual shots except the base image one to transparency i.e., each subject alone in each shot is left with transparent background (except the base image). Then use "Normal" mode to blend one of the transparent- background images with the base image (with transparent-background one as top layer). Continue to blend all different-positioned subjects into the base image. Hope this helps.
 
hark

hark

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blackstar said:
Hi Cindy, I found another possibility to achieve what you want by using "layer blending" in either PS or Gimp (check this: https://docs.gimp.org/en/gimp-concepts-layer-modes.html). In Gimp, you use "Normal" mode to blend two layers. For your purpose, you need to change the background of all individual shots except the base image one to transparency i.e., each subject alone in each shot is left with transparent background (except the base image). Then use "Normal" mode to blend one of the transparent- background images with the base image (with transparent-background one as top layer). Continue to blend all different-positioned subjects into the base image. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Thanks blackstar. I will take a look. :)
 
Marilynne

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[FONT=&quot]Didn't [MENTION=11881]Moab Man[/MENTION] shoot a lot of soccer games? Maybe he'll chime in.[/FONT]
 
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