viscountdriver
Senior Member
I have a Jessops 360afd flash which worked well on my Nikon D3100.Now I have a D7000 it won't work. Any help,please?
Jessops flash
- Thread starter viscountdriver
- Start date
I would stick to a NIkon flash only, cheaper non Nikon can cause damage to the sync circuit. If any one is using non Nikon flashes I would invest in a little item called a Safe sync( Approx) £45, fits on the hot-shoe then the unit on top. The circuit in the Safe sync protects from excess current from getting to the camera. When that capacitor fires there is a lot of current, in milliseconds but it is high.
I used a Sigma flash on my D90 and it blew the top circuit board, repair was in excess of £300. Buy the right flash because it could cost in the long run.
I know there will be loads coming on here telling me that they have used 3rd party gear for without any problems for years. I accept that, because I did it too and learned the hard way, unlucky! Maybe. Just saying it as it is.
I used a Sigma flash on my D90 and it blew the top circuit board, repair was in excess of £300. Buy the right flash because it could cost in the long run.
I know there will be loads coming on here telling me that they have used 3rd party gear for without any problems for years. I accept that, because I did it too and learned the hard way, unlucky! Maybe. Just saying it as it is.
It's not officially supported by Nikon cameras, so there's already no guarantees it'll work or not damage the circuitry.. As stated above, a cheap flash can be incompatible or worse, ruin your rig altogether. I chose to play it safe and spend the money the first time and get a branded flash.
viscountdriver
Senior Member
I'm not a heavy user of flash do you think the SB600 would do?
Seriously, you'd be much better off with the SB700.
RockyNH_RIP
Senior Member
Jack, I am also looking "dreaming at the moment" of a good flash... as a noobie here, can you expound on why I would want the 700 over 600?? I respect yours and others opinions on these things... (also not a big flash user)
Thanks in advance!
Pat in NH
Thanks in advance!
Pat in NH
I have both and can tell you that the 700' menu and use is MUCH more user friendly. It's only money!
AxeMan - Rick S.
Senior Member
I have three Amazon.com: Godox TT560 Flash Speedlite for Canon Nikon Pentax Olympus + White Flash Diffuser: Camera & Photo and one SB700 but I've never used the Godox on camera. So I can't say anything really about them, outside of you get what you pay for. And knew that when I bought them but bought them with the intention of using them off camera.
I use a Nikon flash (SB700) for a primary (on camera) flash.
The SB700 to put it simple is a point and shoot flash in the TTL mode (through the lens) it will make all the settings for you. Or if you like you can switch into manual mode and make all your own setting.
The most common complaint I have read on the SB700, some claim it is underpowered compared to other Nikon brand flashes. If you look at the numbers it does have a weaker output, but in photo's I think you can't tell the difference and I think some people are trying to pick pepper out of fly poop just because they know it has a weaker output.
My advice is buy the SB700 and stay away from the SB600. Learn how to use a flash without blasting your subject with it (use the bounce card or bounce the flash off something) and you will never look back.
The SB600 had its day, but the SB700 is the replacement to it. I know someone is going to say something about the SB400, so I 'm going to save some time and give you my quick thought on that.
I may stand corrected here but it is my understanding the SB400 is no better than your pop up flash. The only difference is the SB400 "lens", not the whole head, tilts up and down and does not swing left or right. I don't know what you're looking to do with your flash photography but I would stay away from it if it were me.
I have a question to the other posters that brought the point of circuit damage, does this hold true to radio triggers? Or does this only hold true to 3rd party flashes when they fire might back feed for a lack of a better word into the camera. I'm using cheap third party radio triggers and the thought came to mind now.
I use a Nikon flash (SB700) for a primary (on camera) flash.
The SB700 to put it simple is a point and shoot flash in the TTL mode (through the lens) it will make all the settings for you. Or if you like you can switch into manual mode and make all your own setting.
The most common complaint I have read on the SB700, some claim it is underpowered compared to other Nikon brand flashes. If you look at the numbers it does have a weaker output, but in photo's I think you can't tell the difference and I think some people are trying to pick pepper out of fly poop just because they know it has a weaker output.
My advice is buy the SB700 and stay away from the SB600. Learn how to use a flash without blasting your subject with it (use the bounce card or bounce the flash off something) and you will never look back.
The SB600 had its day, but the SB700 is the replacement to it. I know someone is going to say something about the SB400, so I 'm going to save some time and give you my quick thought on that.
I may stand corrected here but it is my understanding the SB400 is no better than your pop up flash. The only difference is the SB400 "lens", not the whole head, tilts up and down and does not swing left or right. I don't know what you're looking to do with your flash photography but I would stay away from it if it were me.
I have a question to the other posters that brought the point of circuit damage, does this hold true to radio triggers? Or does this only hold true to 3rd party flashes when they fire might back feed for a lack of a better word into the camera. I'm using cheap third party radio triggers and the thought came to mind now.
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RockyNH_RIP
Senior Member
Rick & Marcel, thank you for your comments... any issues or quirks with the 700 I should be aware of?
Pat in NH
Pat in NH
AxeMan - Rick S.
Senior Member
If you call falling in love a quirk, then no not that I can think of any.
RockyNH_RIP
Senior Member
pistnbroke
Banned
I had 3 jessop units at one time to use on the D7000 ..flash results were inconsistant so I binned them ..( well on ebay )
YN 465 is fine have 2 as is the YN 565 and SB 400 the only reason for sticking with a Nikon flash is if you want to use the one on the camera in command mode then only Nikon SB600 and above will do it. YN units will respond to commands and work fully iTTL as remotes but not give out commands to others.
YN 465 is fine have 2 as is the YN 565 and SB 400 the only reason for sticking with a Nikon flash is if you want to use the one on the camera in command mode then only Nikon SB600 and above will do it. YN units will respond to commands and work fully iTTL as remotes but not give out commands to others.
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The link to ebay below if a very nice bounce reflector, I've bought 4 and have used one at a wedding last week. Well worth the tiny amount they cost. Shipping took its time to the UK, nearly a month, but they did get here safe and sound.
Flash Bounce Reflector Card Diffuser for Nikon Sony | eBay
Regards Peter
PS, I used it on the SB900.
Flash Bounce Reflector Card Diffuser for Nikon Sony | eBay
Regards Peter
PS, I used it on the SB900.
pistnbroke
Banned
and how did you fit it for portrait shots ???
viscountdriver
Senior Member
Thanks for the discussion on the merits of the SB600/700 which I read with interest but it does not help me with my original question.
I have no doubt the SB600/700 are really great but I have the Jessops flash because I am an elderly retired man on a pension and the purchase of the D7000
means my wife will go without things like food for a while and there is so much time swhe will put up with it.
I have no doubt the SB600/700 are really great but I have the Jessops flash because I am an elderly retired man on a pension and the purchase of the D7000
means my wife will go without things like food for a while and there is so much time swhe will put up with it.
pistnbroke
Banned
well the jessops unit does work with the D7000 but as I said a bit variable .
...it will not work at over 800 iso
so I think we have your problem sorted try 640 as a max
...it will not work at over 800 iso
so I think we have your problem sorted try 640 as a max
Answer to pistnbroke,,, It's really dead simple using the bounce reflector when shooting upright. Normally with the flash and bounce reflector fitted on the camera, the light source is too far from the lens axis hence you get those huge ugly shadows to the side of your subject. To shoot upright, imagine the camera on a tripod in the upright position, the flash head should been turned 90degrees down, then turn the head upright to face the ceiling. The reflector card which is normally attached to the rear of the flash unit needs now to be turned and fitted on the side of the head making that distance from the lens is now greatly reduced. You still get a small shadow but it is not as ugly.
I never or rarely shoot using the flash as my only illumination, I use the bounce reflector mostly at weddings I always work on a tripod when indoors. I'm old school, but I rarely shoot higher than 400ISO. So if I take a simple reflected light reading of my location and it reads say, 10th sec at f5.6. Thats what I shoot on the camera with the flash usually 2 stops less. Any higher ISO and you make it too sensitive and risk losing highlight details easily. The longer shutter time allows the ambient light to fill the background and any shadows disappear. I worked all my life inside churches using the same technique with roll film. Just as then, I want the shot to be right in the camera, thats the art of being a good and creative photographer. Anyone can stick a flash on top, set it to 6oth sec hand held and blast away, but it does'nt do anything for the images produced, in fact in my opinion, it's not even good amateur standard.
I never or rarely shoot using the flash as my only illumination, I use the bounce reflector mostly at weddings I always work on a tripod when indoors. I'm old school, but I rarely shoot higher than 400ISO. So if I take a simple reflected light reading of my location and it reads say, 10th sec at f5.6. Thats what I shoot on the camera with the flash usually 2 stops less. Any higher ISO and you make it too sensitive and risk losing highlight details easily. The longer shutter time allows the ambient light to fill the background and any shadows disappear. I worked all my life inside churches using the same technique with roll film. Just as then, I want the shot to be right in the camera, thats the art of being a good and creative photographer. Anyone can stick a flash on top, set it to 6oth sec hand held and blast away, but it does'nt do anything for the images produced, in fact in my opinion, it's not even good amateur standard.
pistnbroke
Banned
well I did hope that was what you would say ..you have been watching garry fong swivel the flash head...or perhaps you taught him .....I think 99% of people on here dont know what you are talking about ..flash head sideways on ???? no no wont work !!!!
Still its still too slow to swop the reflector about so I will stick with my flash flipper ....
Tripod whats that ??? VR killed the tripod..too slow ..too cumbersome and too may pissed guests ready to fall over it ....Now when we used a Hassleblad different game different age .....
Still its still too slow to swop the reflector about so I will stick with my flash flipper ....
Tripod whats that ??? VR killed the tripod..too slow ..too cumbersome and too may pissed guests ready to fall over it ....Now when we used a Hassleblad different game different age .....
I have done that way since I went Digital about 15 years ago. With the Bronica and Blad the camera stayed put, I shot on 6cmx6cm. I made my own bounce reflector out of some white modellers plasticard and that was that. The item on ebay that I posted was so cheap and saved the carry on of making a one. As for my tripod, I still cannot handhold my camera as still as a tripod. I only have about 4 lenses that are VR anyway. The tripod still marks out MY territory when I'm working. When you work hand held as soon as you move from your spot to set up another group then the guests close in and are all where you want be. I simply tell the guests, take pictures if you want but do not stray in front of my camera or distract my clients in any other way. Once I have the couple away from the guests I then move to more handheld working.
By the way those reflectors on ebay are held on with an elastic strap with velcro fastening, so no taking on and off to re-position, grab it and just twist it round to the new position.
We all have our own ways and means and, if what works for one individual then that is fine. It's nice to share things that sometimes can make an instant impact to somebodies work.
By the way those reflectors on ebay are held on with an elastic strap with velcro fastening, so no taking on and off to re-position, grab it and just twist it round to the new position.
We all have our own ways and means and, if what works for one individual then that is fine. It's nice to share things that sometimes can make an instant impact to somebodies work.