Focus Issues

CAM1

Senior Member
I have a D3100 and D7000 that I appear to be having focus issues with both, and need guidance or opinions on what action I should take. Here are the details...I have two kit lenses - 18-55mm and a 55-200mm; and two (what I call) specialty lenses a 10-24mm wide angle and an 85mm macro. Using a tripod or stationary device and a remote shutter release - I have yet to get a "tack sharp" image. Almost 98% of the shots I take require some sharpening using Aperture or other computer software to attain. To me this seems unreasonable for 1K+ camera as I get about the same amount of out of focus with both bodies and all lenses. I normally have to adjust the "radius" setting under sharpening by about 40% to get the tack sharpness I expect. My question is...am I expecting to much from what I have and this amount of sharpening is normal; or should I consider returning the bodies to Nikon for adjustment/repair. I am also concerned that if I bother to send these in that they will come back indicating they are within normal range for focus...or even make them worse. Any suggestions or guidance would be appreciated. Thanks...CAM.
 

John P

Senior Member
Would need to see some pics. With settings.
Also are you shooting with the VR on?
Is this an issue in all lighting?
 

Dave_W

The Dude
Use the Auto Focus fine tuning on your D7000. You'll get those crisp super sharp images once the lens is in perfect tuning. I don't know whether or not you can fine tune on the D5100 but you can on the D7000. Use this method HERE that comes with a device to help insure you're at a perfect 45 degree angle. It's a bit of a pain in the butt to do all your lenses (especially if you have more than a few) but well worth the effort to have sharp images.
 

CAM1

Senior Member
Thanks to those who have responded...as for the questions; yes it seems to happen in all lighting situations and, yes as I indicated it seems about the same with all four lenses. I have reviewed the other threads on focusing issues and have tested to some degree the front/back focus on the lenses to the best of my ability - but have not seen any real improvement.
 

CAM1

Senior Member
Attached are a couple of test shots; one with the D7000 handheld, the other with the D3100 on a tripod, however VR was not turned off - but I seem to get the same result either way. CAM_0074.jpgDSC_0102.jpg
 

Dave_W

The Dude
Until you exhaustively test your lenses lenses and are completely convinced they're in tune and are not the problem, everything else is just wild speculation.
 

stmv

Senior Member
you know, really don't know how fussy you are, but, put it in manual focus, go into Live view, zoom in to the test chart, focus as sharp as you can, and then see how it looks zoomed in on the monitor. Now, these cameras have anti alias filters that do soften just a bit, and so,, just a tad sharpening is just part of the normal work flow.

I will say that I am sometimes faked out by the computer versus the sharpness I get out of the print. I just framed up some 13x19 and the sharpnesss just blows me away, every line.word, etc of a city scene leaps from the page. did it look as sharp on the computer, nope.

anyway, if you find that the manual focus yields better than you might have to AF tune, or send back to Nikon for Adjustment.

good luck.
 

fotojack

Senior Member
If your lens has VR, and you're using a tripod......turn off the VR! It is not used when using a tripod! VR is for hand held shots!
 

skyferno

New member
I always try to shoot against the sun and the camera always have trouble focusing and wont focus at all. The pictures always gets washed out. But some pictures look fine. Does anyone know whats going on?
 

BackdoorArts

Senior Member
If your lens has VR, and you're using a tripod......turn off the VR! It is not used when using a tripod! VR is for hand held shots!

Great point, and one that I often forget. Quick explanation for those who are raising a questioning eyebrow, VR employs a small gyroscope inside the lens meant to counter any lens movements or shake. When the lens is not moving, the gyroscope still is and can impart a very small amount of movement which on a long exposure can become very noticeable. I suspect that it would be less so on sub-second shot, but it would definitely soften a multi-second exposure.

I would add that the D7000's mirror has a far more aggressive slap than my D90's - an annoying fact I've come to live with. But if your handheld technique is even a little less than solid it can lead to a touch of fuzz. Set your release mode dial to Q as you test these, and when using a tripod I will either use the 2-step remote (click 1, mirror up - click 2, shutter release) or turn on the Exposure Delay (setup menu d11) to make sure I eliminate all impediments to camera shake. I've actually started using Quiet Shutter Release mode as a default whenever I would otherwise be in Single Shot mode. Why not, if it removes one possible impediment to a great picture? I need all the help I can get. LOL

As for your specific images, CAM1, the handheld D7000 image is at f22, which I've come to find can soften some images just as much as a lens wide open, so you may want to try that at f18 or f11 just to eliminate that factor. You'll also get a more manageable handheld shutter speed than 1/25, which would definitely be susceptible to the mirror slap I mentioned. As for the test chart, I would think an ISO value below 1600 would benefit the sharpness factor as well. For checking focus issues I like to shoot test charts at the lowest possible ISO value so I know any issues are with the camera/lens and not with noise. Throw some more light on that thing and shoot again.
 
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