U1 u2

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Keoki

Senior Member
Just thought I'd start a conversation about what you've programed your custom settings for. I haven't touched mine yet, but want to set one for wildlife and one for nature.
 
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PapaST

Senior Member
I need to get back to using these. Back in the day I setup U2 for birding. AP mode with auto-iso mins and maxes set and shutter low end settings. Along with focus short throws and all sorts of stuff.
 
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Don Kuykendall_RIP

RIP :(
I have U! set for normal shooting while I am out and about and U2 set for Bird in Flight. The only time I use U1 is when I am out shooting where I might encounter Bird in Flight or some sort of high speed shot. I set my wife's D7000 up the same way so I can just tell her to go to U2. I used it for dolphins over the weekend. Worked great

don_0602.jpg
 
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Krs_2007

Senior Member
U1 is for action and U2 is for static shots. But here lately I seem to be altering both, but thats my general idea. One in continuos, one in servo. I also have U2 as RAW+jpeg. Figure its time play around with them again as I am sure I can utilize them better.
 
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480sparky

Senior Member
PapaST said:
aaahhhh now this I would like to learn about. May I ask how your settings are?
Click to expand...

Three frames spaced 2EV apart is probably adequate for most scenes, but sometimes you need more. I would like to share my method of shooting 5- and 9-frame brackets. This method makes use of User modes U1 and U2.

 After the initial setup (explained below), WHICH YOU ONLY DO ONCE, shooting an HDR is simple. You only need to make three quick adjustments to your camera before shooting:
(1) set the Mode to A
(2) set the Release mode to CH
(3) set Bracketing to 3F in 1.0 EV increments.



To set up U1 and U2 for a 9-frame bracket spaced 1 EV apart (YOU ONLY DO THIS ONCE):


* Set mode dial to A (Aperture priority)

* Set Shutter release mode = CH (continuous high speed)

* Custom setting e6 -> Bracketing order = Under, Meter, Over

* ISO = Auto

* Bracketing = 3F in 1.0 EV increments

* turn the Exposure comp dial to -3 EV

* Setup Menu -> Save user settings -> U1

* turn the Exposure comp dial to +3EV

* Setup Menu -> Save user settings -> U2


You are done setting up U1 and U2. Be sure to set Exposure comp dial back to 0 EV, set bracketing to 0F, and set the Shutter release mode to whatever you normally keep it at.



Now say you stumble on a scene that calls for HDR. 

(1) Set the Mode to A

(2) set Bracketing to 3F in 1.0 EV increments

(3) set the release mode to CH.


Now press the shutter release button three times:


(1) once with Mode dial set to U1

(2) once with Mode dial set to A

(3) once with Mode dial set to U2


This creates nine exposures in the following order (relative to normal exposure):


-4EV -3EV -2EV -1EV 0EV +1EV +2EV +3EV +4EV


After shooting, review the histograms and possibly select a subset of the nine shots, deleting others.


The procedure is similar for setting up a 5-frame bracket, and is easy to figure out once you understand the 9-frame setup.
 
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Blade Canyon

Senior Member
U1 for video (setting shutter speed, sharpness, contrast for a cinematic look), and U2 for HDRs, because I always forget to turn off RAW in other modes and HDR doesn't work with RAW. With U2, in-camera HDRs are just a click away.
 
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egosbar

Senior Member
u1 portrait , matrix metering (meter lock when needed) , single spot focus , aperture priority , f8 , iso 100 then use iso or aperture to control shutter speed so its above focal length and if possible double or even triple focal length

u2 action ( birds in flight), 21 point continuous focus , matrix metering ( meter lock when needed) f8 , aperture priority , iso 100 then use iso and/or aperture to get to at least 500 shutter speed min although writing this i might change it to shutter priority and set that on 500 min , i do have to put the camera into continuous low burst mode but i cant program that

any thoughts on the above two would be appreciated , especially the metering for u2 and the aperture and mode , i just start at f8 im pretty familiar with my camera so changing aperture or iso is very quick , reason i use both on aperture priority is its very natural to me not to need shutter priority as i am always aware of the shutter speed anyway and as mentioned control that through a combination of aperture or iso
 
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