strange yellow tint on the camera playback - help please

i was setting up the backfocus too the ae af lock button , i tested it out in the kitchen under flouro light with auto wb on , i fired off these single shots , on playback there are different areas with yellow tinge and some of the shots have nil

all these shots were taken one after another with no light change

can anyone help here please

here are the samples

there are more , some have the yellow on the roof and one is completely yellow

they get a lot worse i can post more , i even tried on burst mode and each photo has a different degree of yellow with the odd one that is ok

Did you try to set the WB to fluorescents. Stead of auto ?

EXIF data might help us too

yep tried the white balance flouro same result ill post exif for each image

Auto WB will often vary shot to shot in some lighting situations, which is why it's recommended to set it to something specific when shooting a series of photos to be viewed together or bracketed images for HDR. I supect that if you were to open these in camera RAW you would see a different WB value for each.

egosbar said:

yep tried the white balance flouro same result ill post exif for each image

Click to expand...

If the EXIF doesn't contain the specific WB value take a look in LR/ACR and let us know what it is. It shouldn't vary on a fixed value, so perhaps you somehow turned on WB bracketing on your camera?

image one , f4.5 , iso 4000 , 1/320 , center weighted average , wb auto , aperture priority

each one is exactly the same

checked them all in raw and it just says wb as shot

how do you see the wb in raw , i just see as shot

im under a flouro light , in a five burst set they are all different , when i shoot single and wait a bit they are all different

white balance is not set too bracket , i have ae set too function button so i can use it while using the back focus button these were what i was playing with when i noticed these shots when testing if i liked the back focus or not

If you open the RAW file in the Lightroom Develop Module or in Adobe Camera RAW there will be a number next to the Temperature slider. This is the WB value (make sure the WB is set to "As Shot" - if it's not then your Import module is applying a change, which may be your problem). If you used Flourescent it should be something consistent around 3800. If they are different in each photo then the camera is changing it, which it will do in Auto WB. If it is the same then something else is going on.

i dropped the iso back too 1000 and seems ok , i didnt think pushing iso that high would show yellow in different areas like it is doing

BackdoorHippie said:

If you open the RAW file in the Lightroom Develop Module or in Adobe Camera RAW there will be a number next to the Temperature slider. This is the WB value. If they are different in each photo then the camera is changing it, which it will do in Auto WB. If it is the same then something else is going on.

Click to expand...

they are all on zero

egosbar said:

they are all on zero

Click to expand...

If they are 0 then you're not reading the RAW file. Are these JPEGs? If so then the camera can be applying all sorts of other things to the photo on top of the WB. If you have the RAW file look at them. If not, try this again shooting in RAW because I don't know if you can extract the specific WB information on a JPEG.

oh yes im just shooting in jpeg for testing , still i wouldnt think this would happen , would the 4000 iso cause this , seemed ok when dropping back too 1000 hints of it at 1600

ill test this again tomorrow night its late here now and i have too get up for work soon thanks for replying , please keep an eye on this post and ill update it tomorrow after a test

I've been thinking about florescent and LED lights for awhile. I don't have the shooting experience to say anything firm on this and I have not read much. But don't florescent lights flicker? The phosphors have a bit of afterglow to even things out a bit, but they are still pulsed and I'm sure their brightness varies over the power cycle. Older lights pulsed with the line frequency. 50 or 60hz, so they are without power 100 or 120 times a second. The phosphors keep them glowing during the off period, but I have to think it drives auto white balance and metering crazy. Newer electronic florescent ballasts can speed this flicker up into the khz region, so less noticeable and less likely to drive sensitive people crazy in schools and offices. Newer lights might be less problematic for cameras too. LED lights have even greater potential for problems. Depending on the power supply, they can be rock steady or with a very simple power supply, they vary from full on to full off at twice the line frequency. If they are controlled by a fancy dimmer, the frequency can be anything. We know florescent and LED lights can make our videos crazy, why not cause inconsistency between still shots?

I found this post. This guy says pretty much what I was thinking:
Limitations of Fluorescent Lighting

Then I went back to an article Jake posted this weekend about a shutter problem on the new DF camera. I was thinking about one of the comments that suggested it was a light problem. The original writer dismissed it, but this morning when I went to re-read it, I see the article was rewritten to say the cause was lighting. He refers to an article which turns out to be written by the poster I linked above.

yes the example in the link is exactly whats happening , at high iso higher shutter speed it gets worse like the blue to orange images in the example and at low shutter speed it is there but better , makes sense , well this does present a problem when shooting under fluoros anyone got a technique too combat this? here are the examples

the problem in post process is a quarter too half the image is incorrect white balance so fixing would require masking

here is the exif data of the first two images as they are very different , i believe it is pulsing light which makes sense

IMAGE 1
Exposure Time (1 / Shutter Speed) 1/250 second ===> 0.004 second
Lens F-Number / F-Stop 45/10 ===> ƒ/4.5
Exposure Program aperture priority (3)
ISO Speed Ratings 4000
Sensitivity Type recommended exposure index (REI) (2)
EXIF Version 0221
Original Date/Time 2014:01:28 06:12:44
Digitization Date/Time 2014:01:28 06:12:44
Shutter Speed Value (APEX) 7965784/1000000
Shutter Speed (Exposure Time) 1/250 second
Aperture Value (APEX) 433985/100000
Aperture ƒ/4.5
Exposure Bias (EV) 0/6 ===> 0
Max Aperture Value (APEX) 40/10 ===> 4
Max Aperture ƒ/4
Metering Mode center weighted average (2)
Light Source / White Balance unknown (0)
Flash Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Focal Length 240/10 mm ===> 24 mm
Last Modified Subsecond Time 80
Original Subsecond Time 80
Digitized Subsecond Time 80
Colour Space uncalibrated (65535)
Image Width 600 pixels
Image Height 400 pixels
Focal Plane X-Resolution 83841555/32768 ===> 2558.64
Focal Plane Y-Resolution 83841555/32768 ===> 2558.64
Focal Plane X/Y-Resolution Unit centimeter (3)
Image Sensing Method one-chip color area sensor (2)
Image Source 0x03,0x00,0x00,0x00
Scene Type directly photographed image
Colour Filter Array (CFA) Geometric Pattern 0x02,0x00,0x02,0x00,0x00,0x01,0x01,0x02
Custom Rendered normal process (0)
Exposure Mode auto exposure (0)
White Balance auto (0)
Digital Zoom Ratio 1/1 ===> 1
Focal Length in 35mm Film 36
Scene Capture Type standard (0)
Gain Control high gain up (2)
Contrast normal (0)
Saturation normal (0)
Sharpness normal (0)
Subject Distance Range unknown (0)
Body Serial Number 2058399
Lens Specification 18-55mm F3.5-5.6
Lens Model 18.0-55.0 mm f/3.5-5.6


IMAGE 2
Camera Make NIKON CORPORATION
Camera Model NIKON D7100
Picture Orientation normal (1)
X-Resolution 3000000/10000 ===> 300
Y-Resolution 3000000/10000 ===> 300
X/Y-Resolution Unit inch (2)
Software / Firmware Version Adobe Photoshop CC (Windows)
Last Modified Date/Time 2014:01:28 06:23:27
EXIF Sub IFD
Exposure Time (1 / Shutter Speed) 1/250 second ===> 0.004 second
Lens F-Number / F-Stop 45/10 ===> ƒ/4.5
Exposure Program aperture priority (3)
ISO Speed Ratings 4000
Sensitivity Type recommended exposure index (REI) (2)
EXIF Version 0221
Original Date/Time 2014:01:28 06:12:45
Digitization Date/Time 2014:01:28 06:12:45
Shutter Speed Value (APEX) 7965784/1000000
Shutter Speed (Exposure Time) 1/250 second
Aperture Value (APEX) 433985/100000
Aperture ƒ/4.5
Exposure Bias (EV) 0/6 ===> 0
Max Aperture Value (APEX) 40/10 ===> 4
Max Aperture ƒ/4
Metering Mode center weighted average (2)
Light Source / White Balance unknown (0)
Flash Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Focal Length 240/10 mm ===> 24 mm
Last Modified Subsecond Time 00
Original Subsecond Time 00
Digitized Subsecond Time 00
Colour Space uncalibrated (65535)
Image Width 600 pixels
Image Height 400 pixels
Focal Plane X-Resolution 83841555/32768 ===> 2558.64
Focal Plane Y-Resolution 83841555/32768 ===> 2558.64
Focal Plane X/Y-Resolution Unit centimeter (3)
Image Sensing Method one-chip color area sensor (2)
Image Source 0x03,0x00,0x00,0x00
Scene Type directly photographed image
Colour Filter Array (CFA) Geometric Pattern 0x02,0x00,0x02,0x00,0x00,0x01,0x01,0x02
Custom Rendered normal process (0)
Exposure Mode auto exposure (0)
White Balance auto (0)
Digital Zoom Ratio 1/1 ===> 1
Focal Length in 35mm Film 36
Scene Capture Type standard (0)
Gain Control high gain up (2)
Contrast normal (0)
Saturation normal (0)
Sharpness normal (0)
Subject Distance Range unknown (0)
Body Serial Number 2058399
Lens Specification 18-55mm F3.5-5.6
Lens Model 18.0-55.0 mm f/3.5-5.6

at least i dont think my new camera is faulty :chuncky:

as far as raw white balance numbers go , two of the images that are the most different had the same temperature 3750 and on had +38 tint and the yellower one had +39 tint

I think slower shutter speed or flash will solve the problem. The shutter needs to be open long enough to 'paint' the sensor with a full cycle of changing light color.