D3100 capabilities

So, as I consider continuing my studies and going into the intermediate levels, my next class involves detachable flash instruction... and I began digging.

I got into the D3100 as a beginner on a budget, and I've been enjoying every minute of shooting with it. The itch has settled in, and I've decided that this is something I want to continue with, eventually setting up, perhaps, some outdoor portrait shoots, etc. Over time, I'd even like to set up a mini in-home sort of studio set-up with a couple of remote flashes (umbrellas?), etc. and I'm wondering, can I continue on with that plan with the D3100? If so, the next steps would be a flash and a prime lens (leaning toward the 50mm 1.8).

Please remember the "budget" word.

The way I've progressed so far is listed below, over the course of about 8 months:

1) Get the camera and go! (fun in itself)
2) Cheaper tripod and bag.
3) Beginning digital photography class (learned a TON of info)
4) Refurbed 70-300 VR! (FANTASTIC)
5) LR 5 on order (coupon code got it for $99!)
5) Now considering the next class (intermediate) and flashes, etc.

Should I stick with what I'm doing now, and just wait for a couple of years to squirrel away funds to get an upgraded body before going on, or do you think it's possible to meet the goals I listed above (outdoor portraits, indoor studio with off camera flashes, and such) and start putting the camera to working toward helping me squirrel away those upgrade funds?

FWIW, thinking I was finally settling in on the "basic" info I needed, all of these thoughts about flashes, remote flashes, controlling the lighting, iTTL modes, etc. has me swimming in confusion, and that's what's causing me to wonder if I can achieve the first small step of my dream with the D3100.

Thanks in advance for any insights!

You can accomplish a lot with your D3100. Use your D3100 to help make some extra funds towards getting better glass and body. lighting is tough to wrap your head around, but once you get it, it opens up a whole new world. you aren't constrained by available light. Have fun with your D3100 and you will know when that body is holding you back. At that point is when you should upgrade.

If you can put your D3100 to work to help you generate funds towards your next camera, do it. Out of curiosity, why wouldn’t you think that it would be possible to achieve your goals (of making money) with the D3100?

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I’ve only had my camera for three months but the approach that I’ve taken is that everything that I buy now is going to go on my next camera in two years: the D7100 (or the D7200 if it’s out by then). This approach will change your perspective because now your definition of “budget” is different; you’re going from “what can I afford now” vs “what is the best investment that I can make based on the future”. Is the lens that you’re interested in going to be $800 or the flash that you want $300? No problem…you’re going to be using that equipment on your next camera in two years and probably the next one after that too. What’s nice about Nikon is that if you stay with the brand, you know that you’re not going to have to mounting issues in the future if you stick with Nikon made products. Your only real consideration at this point would be to decide if you are going to go full-frame in the future. If you are, you probably will want to buy FX lenses now—if not, go nuts with DX.

I have yet to feel that my camera itself has limited my ability to take pictures—but I have realized that if I want to get results close to what I see in magazines or in the forums here, I am going to have to get good upgrades. I’ve mentioned in other threads that my niece has a top of-the-line Canon (D5 Mark II) with upgrades to match (I wish that I had her parents’ money). At first I was demoralized to see how her camera would take better quality pictures than mine consistently with what seemed like little to no effort when I tried it out. But since then I’ve obtained some good lenses and flashes and because I have more experience than she, I feel that both of our cameras are yielding the same quality pictures now (I keep telling her to stop using the lazy Auto mode and start experimenting).

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Just remember to keep everything fun!

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If you buy the right flash it will go on to the next camera. Whatever you do don't buy a cheap flash because it will not do what you want. The SB400 is a nice little flash but it is barely more effective than the flash you have on your camera now. Save up and buy the SB-700. It has the function and power to last you for a long time. It is not cheap by my standards but it will work great on the camera you have not and will transfer over to a multiple light system great later when or if you ever decide to move up.

Nikon SB-700 AF Speedlight Flash

The term you need to look up is the Commander mode. Your D3100 or even my D5100 does not have this built in but the flash does have it built in so when it is on your camera it can control over flashes that you may have later. You have to move up to the D7000 or above to get that function built in.

But right now you can stick that flash on the camera and bounce it off the ceiling with the camera in program mode and get great results.

Here is a shot I did just that way

eidian said:

If you can put your D3100 to work to help you generate funds towards your next camera, do it. Out of curiosity, why wouldn’t you think that it would be possible to achieve your goals (of making money) with the D3100?

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My main concern is if it would handle the multiple flash type scenario in a mini-studio type of setting or even to help remove shadows in outdoor shooting. From response here and in another flash specific thread, it sounds like it will with the SB-700, so I'm calming down now.

I’ve only had my camera for three months but the approach that I’ve taken is that everything that I buy now is going to go on my next camera in two years: the D7100 (or the D7200 if it’s out by then). This approach will change your perspective because now your definition of “budget” is different; you’re going from “what can I afford now” vs “what is the best investment that I can make based on the future”. Is the lens that you’re interested in going to be $800 or the flash that you want $300? No problem…you’re going to be using that equipment on your next camera in two years and probably the next one after that too. What’s nice about Nikon is that if you stay with the brand, you know that you’re not going to have to mounting issues in the future if you stick with Nikon made products. Your only real consideration at this point would be to decide if you are going to go full-frame in the future. If you are, you probably will want to buy FX lenses now—if not, go nuts with DX.

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That's exactly how I've been tackling it. My first lens purchase was the 70-300 VR that will attach to any upgrade I make in the future, and the flash I purchase will be too. After a lot of consideration, I'll be squirreling away for the SB-700.

I have yet to feel that my camera itself has limited my ability to take pictures—but I have realized that if I want to get results close to what I see in magazines or in the forums here, I am going to have to get good upgrades. I’ve mentioned in other threads that my niece has a top of-the-line Canon (D5 Mark II) with upgrades to match (I wish that I had her parents’ money). At first I was demoralized to see how her camera would take better quality pictures than mine consistently with what seemed like little to no effort when I tried it out. But since then I’ve obtained some good lenses and flashes and because I have more experience than she, I feel that both of our cameras are yielding the same quality pictures now (I keep telling her to stop using the lazy Auto mode and start experimenting).

Click to expand...

Actually, I'll differ with ya a bit in this area. If two people are shooting point and click (auto mode), sometimes quality differences will be visible between different cameras, but put folks who know what they're doing behind just about any camera, then apply a little knowledgeable editing/post-processing afterward, and there's where the difference shines through. I think the equipment will let someone with in-depth knowledge expand on their ability, but I know some folks with the eye for shooting and nothing more than an iPhone that could blow away some rookies, quality wise, with a D600.

Granted, I wouldn't want to try and set up a portrait business with the iPhone, as experience behind the equipment, along with the desire and passion to learn the art, will always prove to be superior. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't dreaming hopelessly for a multi-flash set-up with my current equipment, and it seems I should be more than able to bolster my upgrade fund.

With a renewed confidence, I enrolled for my next class, which will teach me the basics of window light portraiture, studio lighting and detachable flashes, so it looks like the next purchase is going to be a flash. THEN... a prime lens for portraits.

Thanks to all for the comments!

​If you have tips/experience with specific multi-flash setups for the D3100 that will carry forward, let me know!!

Pretzel said:

My main concern is if it would handle the multiple flash type scenario in a mini-studio type of setting or even to help remove shadows in outdoor shooting. From response here and in another flash specific thread, it sounds like it will with the SB-700, so I'm calming down now.

Click to expand...

Multiple flash in a studio is normally all manual flash units, which is 100% compatible with your D3100. In contrast, multiple TTL requires a Commander, which the D3100 does not have, but it is limited to 2 or 3 flash units, no room to grow.

To trigger manual flash, there are three ways.

1. PC Sync Cord , for which the D3100 would need the Nikon AS-15 hot shoe adapter to provide a PC socket. Some flashes have PC sockets, but the SB-700 would also need an expensive adapter to add one.

2. Radio triggers - transmitter on hot shoe, and receivers on one or all remote lights.
These receivers would fit on the foot of the remote speedlight.

3. A very common way in indoor studios is optical slaves, which trigger from the light of any other manual flash (it being 1 or 2 above). This could be your cameras internal flash, in Manual flash mode. The SB-700 already has an excellent slave built in to to this (called SU-4 mode). Inexpensive optical slaves can be added as accessories to other speedlights without it.

And of course, your D3100 can use any studio lights too, all manual flash, and triggered by the means above. Studio lights have slaves builtin also (3). But you still have to trigger one of them (typically the near one) with 1 or 2 above.

With a renewed confidence, I enrolled for my next class, which will teach me the basics of window light portraiture, studio lighting and detachable flashes, so it looks like the next purchase is going to be a flash. THEN... a prime lens for portraits.

Click to expand...

The class should be able to give you excellent advice. There are several methods, and of course, different people have different preferences.

Why do you think you need a "prime lens" for portraits? It really helps to be able to zoom, to get the view you want, say from head/shoulders to waist up, or standing, or groups, etc.

The one secret is to always keep the camera back 6 or 8 feet from the subject, to improve the perspective (closer can enlarge noses, and the ladies don't like that). Then you zoom in to get the view you want. The 105mm lens was considered a classic for 35mm film, simply because head/shoulders required it stand back at about this distance. But that is just head/shoulders, and also now, for the DX camera (D3100), this number becomes 70 mm (equivalent view at same distance). Maybe 55-60 mm for waist up, and even less for full length or groups. Just always stand back at 6 or 8 feet (not less if avoidable). But you will need to zoom. In the studio, you don't pick up the tripod and move twice as far back.

​If you have tips/experience with specific multi-flash setups for the D3100 that will carry forward, let me know!!

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See 45 degree Portrait Lighting Setup

Nothing there prohibits the D3100. It's just a camera.

Sorry, I should’ve clarified—my niece defaults to Auto mode 95% of the time. She’s worried about messing up a picture and really has no interest in adjusting settings when the camera will do it for her; her logic is that “she” paid for a camera to do all of that work for her. *I only shoot in Manual mode because it’s all that I know from my Canon AE-1 days (I know, I’m dating myself). *I’m not saying that I’m as good as Canon’s Auto mode, but I’m happy with the results that I’m getting now because of what I describe in my next paragraph…

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When I tried out her camera, I couldn’t believe how good the pictures were turning out at my father-in-law’s birthday party. *I swear it seemed like I couldn’t mess up a picture even if I tried to. *I only took about three dozen pics with all kinds of shutter speeds and apertures with her flash but I didn’t delete a single picture because they all came out pretty good. *One “problem” that I had with my camera was that I had an SB-400 which is a good flash if you’re in a small room with a low, white ceiling shooting in landscape—but not if you’re in a large restaurant with low light. *My 400 was really hit-and-miss, I just couldn’t get consistent results. *As result of that I immediately got an SB-800 and couldn’t be happier (well that’s not entirely true, I got two more 800’s so I guess I’m three times happier). *Before that flash example it was from her camera that I realized that I needed a prime lens if I was going to get the bakke that I wanted for close up shots (BTW, you may want to consider the 35mm f/1.8 G DX. It’s a great lens for the money). *So while she might do a portrait in in Auto mode, I feel that I can shoot an equally good pic with my set up now in Manual (sure it might all be mental, but shooting a portrait with a 35mm prime lens with an SB-800 sure seems to beat out using the 18-55 zoom and SB-400 that I started with).

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Nikon’s CLS is so fricken cool because it allows us people who have “entry” level DSLR’s to command numerous flashes. I got my mounted 800 to command the other two within twenty minutes of receiving them (oh, and I would suggest getting rechargeable batteries because these big flashes suck the life out of the batteries pretty quickly).* You’re really going to like being able to command off-the-camera flashes; I don’t even have umbrellas yet but I had a blast experimenting with the flashes. *I can’t wait to save tons of money this holiday season when I take our family portraits with my own setup instead of going to a studio or hiring a photographer.

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