The last few camera modes (since D300S) are different than older ones, like D300 and D90.
Old ones, Auto ISO stayed at minimum with flash, because, after all, you are using flash. A hot shoe flash could increase ISO if it needed more flash power, but even then, the viewfinder never shows a higher Auto value (with flash). The Exif data in rear LCD shows it later, in red, if it advanced. So... Auto ISO didn't much matter for hot shoe flash.
Newer ones, indoors, Auto ISO will go sky high due to the dimmer ambient, and the flash has to work into that high ISO ... as fill flash (TTL BL) instead of main light. That means the orange incandescent also registers well, and well, it is orange with Flash WB. Turn Auto ISO off. Low ISO(400) and shutter speed up near maximum sync speed (1/200) makes the ambient be insignificant.
The D4 and D800 improved from this bad development. If using flash, their Auto ISO will only advance two stops from minimum, and then stop. Bounce needs ISO 400 anyway, so that works out real well.
You generally want the pull out white card with bounce. It provides a little forward spill, direct frontal fill. It fills the shadows in eye sockets, etc. You picture seemed close though, so maybe only pull it out half way. When you get boring flat lighting on the face, that's too much card. Good results will show some gradient tone shadows, like your picture. Much more pleasing and interesting light than just flat.
With bounce, it is good to stand back a bit, 6 or 8 feet anyway, and then zoom in if necessary.
This greater distance and angle helps fill those frontal shadows. And such distance is always best for perspective, to avoid showing noses larger, etc.