Some "Aha!" and "Duh!" moments from my Kelby Training seminar

BackdoorArts

Senior Member
I went to the inaugural "Shoot Like A Pro" training session given by Scott Kelby in Philadelphia yesterday. It was well worth my time and money ($89 with discount code). He's a nerd, like us forum folks, but also not afraid to step on photo forum axioms (like "RAW vs. JPEG" ... his answer is "Yes").

Out of respect for the people who make a living doing these things I won't give away any tips that I feel are core to the course, but there are a few things that are what I would consider so intuitively obvious that they shouldn't even be in a course like this, except for the fact that it so rarely occurs to us that you never think about how right/wrong it is until someone finally tells you. Here are a few of those, chosen so as to hopefully not spark debate - though as he said, some forum people will argue about anything. LOL

How to best avoid getting dust in your camera/lens - It's been a topic here, and many have talked about the best way to get a lens swap done in under 2 seconds to avoid getting dust in the camera. While that helps, what do most of us do with body and rear lens caps when they're not protecting the body and lens? In the bag, or in our pocket. Using his words, "What's the world's greatest collection device for dust and lint? The pants pocket!!" Match the lens and body caps before putting them away - or at least avoid your pockets.

For a tack sharp photo you can't move - Do whatever you need to do to reduce movement. Regardless of the focal length, if you have to shoot below 1/60 then use a tripod or raise your ISO. Don't worry about noise (see below), and while some people will claim that they shot an amazing photo handheld at 1/10, you're not them. Do what's necessary.

Stop worrying about noise- Spend some time really looking at the featured photos in magazines like Sports Illustrated and Time and other magazines that shoot outside the studio. They are great photos, but there's noise everywhere. The only people who care about noise are photographers, and particularly photographers on internet forums. Shoot a great photo and people will love it ... and never see the noise!!

Check your photo immediately - The screen on the back of the camera is meant to be used. Zoom to 100% and check the focus every time because that's one thing you can't fix when you get home.

You won't get better by just reading and watching videos, you need to get out and practice - I don't think I need to explain this one. If I do, then you may be the person who would most benefit from this advice. ;)


There are others, but I don't want to give away too much. I suspect other things will pop up in my posts as the advice sinks in and sticks, and it pertains to specific situations I may post about.
 

RockyNH_RIP

Senior Member
I went to the inaugural "Shoot Like A Pro" training session given by Scott Kelby in Philadelphia yesterday. It was well worth my time and money ($89 with discount code). He's a nerd, like us forum folks, but also not afraid to step on photo forum axioms (like "RAW vs. JPEG" ... his answer is "Yes").

Out of respect for the people who make a living doing these things I won't give away any tips that I feel are core to the course, but there are a few things that are what I would consider so intuitively obvious that they shouldn't even be in a course like this, except for the fact that it so rarely occurs to us that you never think about how right/wrong it is until someone finally tells you. Here are a few of those, chosen so as to hopefully not spark debate - though as he said, some forum people will argue about anything. LOL

How to best avoid getting dust in your camera/lens - It's been a topic here, and many have talked about the best way to get a lens swap done in under 2 seconds to avoid getting dust in the camera. While that helps, what do most of us do with body and rear lens caps when they're not protecting the body and lens? In the bag, or in our pocket. Using his words, "What's the world's greatest collection device for dust and lint? The pants pocket!!" Match the lens and body caps before putting them away - or at least avoid your pockets.

For a tack sharp photo you can't move - Do whatever you need to do to reduce movement. Regardless of the focal length, if you have to shoot below 1/60 then use a tripod or raise your ISO. Don't worry about noise (see below), and while some people will claim that they shot an amazing photo handheld at 1/10, you're not them. Do what's necessary.

Stop worrying about noise- Spend some time really looking at the featured photos in magazines like Sports Illustrated and Time and other magazines that shoot outside the studio. They are great photos, but there's noise everywhere. The only people who care about noise are photographers, and particularly photographers on internet forums. Shoot a great photo and people will love it ... and never see the noise!!

Check your photo immediately - The screen on the back of the camera is meant to be used. Zoom to 100% and check the focus every time because that's one thing you can't fix when you get home.

You won't get better by just reading and watching videos, you need to get out and practice - I don't think I need to explain this one. If I do, then you may be the person who would most benefit from this advice. ;)


There are others, but I don't want to give away too much. I suspect other things will pop up in my posts as the advice sinks in and sticks, and it pertains to specific situations I may post about.

Jake... glad it went well and thanks for sharing these items...

Pat in NH
 

Epoc

Senior Member
Great stuff, thanks Jake. I can definitely relate to the "check your photo immediately" comment. Chimping as I've discovered is the name used and is so frowned upon in forums. I do it all the time and use the preview zoom lots to check focus. I kinda felt like what I was doing was wrong. It's great to hear somebody like Kelby say you should do it :)
 

BackdoorArts

Senior Member
I've watched pros shooting football games and they do it ALL the time. The added advantage is that you can also delete your crap on the spot and not waste the time loading it onto your computer first. Scott mentioned a way to program the center button in the navigation dial so that it will zoom to 100% immediately, but I'm not sure if that's just on the pro bodies. It's in my notes as a thing to check.
 

BackdoorArts

Senior Member
I've had my D300s set that way for quite a while now, I find it quite helpful.

The center button on the 600 is "OK", which means that you can't reprogram it (same on the D7000). I can do it on the D800, thankfully. That's what I feared when I heard the recommendation.
 

Eye-level

Banned
The viewfinder and the histogram are my meal tickets. They allow me to shoot manual focus manual everything lenses with no problem.
 

stmv

Senior Member
Great stuff, thanks Jake. I can definitely relate to the "check your photo immediately" comment. Chimping as I've discovered is the name used and is so frowned upon in forums. I do it all the time and use the preview zoom lots to check focus. I kinda felt like what I was doing was wrong. It's great to hear somebody like Kelby say you should do it :)

Yes, to not use the feature is kinda odd, and remember to turn on your highligh warning, extremely handy to know right away that you have exceeded exposure spots, and zooming in to validate focus is also an excellent practice, a few times I was excited, and only to find out that I had missed the focus plane, very easy to get fooled by a three inch screen.
 
Great stuff, thanks Jake. I can definitely relate to the "check your photo immediately" comment. Chimping as I've discovered is the name used and is so frowned upon in forums. I do it all the time and use the preview zoom lots to check focus. I kinda felt like what I was doing was wrong. It's great to hear somebody like Kelby say you should do it :)

After getting home with that once in a lifetime photo only to to find it out of focus had taught me to check things before I leave the scene.
 

stmv

Senior Member
laughs,, naw.... I keep the lens caps front and rear on at all times, the rear cap protects from dust very well, I keep lens in the cargo pants side pockets all the time, as long as you immediately put the rear cap on the lens you are taking off, no real issues. I go a year between sensor cleans,, and change lens literally 1000 of times in the year.

I vouch for the hold down wards, down wind, and miminal exposure time.
 

BackdoorArts

Senior Member
The idea here, stmv, is that when the lens is on the camera, don't put the loose lens cap in your pocket where it will get dust in it that will then transfer to the lens. Match the lens cap to a body cap first to keep the inside of both caps clean for when they're matched back up to the body/lens.
 

RockyNH_RIP

Senior Member
The idea here, stmv, is that when the lens is on the camera, don't put the loose lens cap in your pocket where it will get dust in it that will then transfer to the lens. Match the lens cap to a body cap first to keep the inside of both caps clean for when they're matched back up to the body/lens.

Great Tip Jake... Thanks! I already learned something today and it is not even 7:30 am

Pat
 

SkvLTD

Senior Member
Now, this will probably seem VERY tacky to most of you, but what about sticking a piece of velcro somewhere on the body and then to each front cap to always have it handy and secure regardless of what lens you put on?
 

BackdoorArts

Senior Member
Having anything else stuck to the body of the camera changes the ergonomics to the point where it would be distracting. For me, I usually have a pair of caps (body and lens back - not the front lens cap) mated in the bag and move rear caps from the new lens to the old when I swap. Very rarely do I have one loose ... but when I do it's usually in my pocket or bag.

Front lens caps usually get tossed in the bag when they go on the lens and get placed on after it's swapped out. I use a front clear filter, so I'm not usually too anal about putting the cap on until I'm done for the day.
 
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