mariosraptor
Senior Member
Hi all. This is my first photo upload would love some CC
Last edited:
Can I Have some CC?
- Thread starter mariosraptor
- Start date
mariosraptor
Senior Member
Damn. Can’t seem to attach them from my iPhone. ����
mariosraptor
Senior Member
Snow Storm??? no pic
Yaaaahhh. Did it through Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
nikonpup
Senior Member
PLEASE READ THE RULES.
[h=2]
NEW Photo Critique Forum Rules *READ BEFORE POSTING*[/h]
[h=2]
mariosraptor
Senior Member
Alright. Will delete them. Thanks and sorry.
Will add exit data tomorrow
Will add exit data tomorrow
Last edited:
Don Kuykendall_RIP
RIP :(
PLEASE READ THE RULES.
NEW Photo Critique Forum Rules *READ BEFORE POSTING*
This is under Feedback and not Critique. Rules are not as strict or enforced
Last edited:
Don Kuykendall_RIP
RIP :(
No need to do that. EXIF data is nice so we can better give you advice. Also if you will resize your photos to 1000px on the long side before uploading the EXIF data should be shown when hovering over the photo.
I agree with Moab Man and have two more suggestions to offer. It's as if the photo is highly saturated. Her face has reds and oranges that I'd prefer to see toned down and improved. I'd also like to see this get cropped to a 5x7 horizontal ratio by removing some of the right side of the photo. I wouldn't want her in the center though. Keep her offside to the left--just not quite as much as she is right now.
I love her expression! Kids are so adorable and innocent at this age. You did capture that!
mariosraptor
Senior Member
Thanks guys for your feedback. I’m really new to photography. And she wouldn’t stay still at all 
Thanks again.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks again.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks guys for your feedback. I’m really new to photography. And she wouldn’t stay still at all
Thanks again.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Please don't feel beat up or discouraged. Keep shooting, falling on your face, and doing it again. Photography is a journey and not a destination. The more you know the more you realize there is so much more to learn.
mariosraptor
Senior Member
Of course not discouraged at all. That’s why I ask for CC. So I can become better.
I’m doing my reading to learn the terms and get familiar with my D500.
Everyday is a new adventure
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Very good to read! What started me in photography a long time ago was when I took a picture of the Delicate Arch in Moab, Utah. I was with the photographer that worked for me and I showed it to him. The photo I took was quite good, I thought. When I showed it to my photog, expecting the praise I thought it deserved, he had responded with, "it sucks." He quickly tried to backpedal realizing he had answered with a straight answer and tried to soften his critique. I had not problem with being told my photo sucked, even if I was slightly wounded, but why does it suck. He explained and that experience set me on my way to learning photography. Years later we now go on shoots together as colleagues.
mariosraptor
Senior Member
That’s amazing. And soooo motivating. And that’s one of the reasons that I want to show my pics and especially to people that have much more experience than me.
This doesn’t apply to photography only. But every kind of things that anyone does.
As long as you can handle critique of course.
I was lent a 35mm F1.8 lens to try some portraits. Will again upload some pictures.
Thank you very much my friend.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That might be a good lens for group shots, but for individual portraits, something in the telephoto range of 85mm to 125mm would be better especially for head shots. And at a minimum, no less than 50mm.
If you are far enough back taking a full body photo, then 35mm might be okay. But what will happen if you get close to your subject to take a head and shoulders image is something called perspective distortion. Things that are closer to the camera (such as noses) may appear elongated and abnormal.
But give it a try because that's really the only way you are going to learn.
mariosraptor
Senior Member
That might be a good lens for group shots, but for individual portraits, something in the telephoto range of 85mm to 125mm would be better especially for head shots. And at a minimum, no less than 50mm.
If you are far enough back taking a full body photo, then 35mm might be okay. But what will happen if you get close to your subject to take a head and shoulders image is something called perspective distortion. Things that are closer to the camera (such as noses) may appear elongated and abnormal.
But give it a try because that's really the only way you are going to learn.
Wow. Thanks. Really helpful advice. Didn’t know that. I’m just trying some lenses from from friends to have some personal perspective of how each one works.
But this one is definitely noted.
Thank you again
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The subject has a great expression but the photo has some missed opportunities. The first one is sitting out of sight to your left....a big soft source of light perfect for portraits. When setting up a shot, even if just 2 seconds thinking about the goal, ask yourself about the direction and quality of light. By turning your subject a bit more towards the window, it would have changed everything. Having deep shadows on the face, noise becomes a problem in the dark shadows where the eyes are. Portraits are about eyes. We humans, and all animals are eye seeking creatures and our brains are keyed into finding eyes even hidden in a confusing scene, we instantly spot eyes and whether they are focused on us. Most likely it was an evolutionary adaptation that allowed long enough survival to raise another generation, since knowing that lion is there by seeing its eyes in the mass of complex background of tall grasses or shrubs was a very good thing to know. We can spot people in a large stadium crowd who out of thousands, who are focused on you. We sense when eyes are focused on us with incredible reliability. Given that eyes are important, at least 1 eye needs to be in focus and sharp for us to perceive the entire image is sharp even when it isn't. In fact, if the eyes, at least the nearest one is sharp, the rest of the image can be intentionally unsharp but our brains will assume it is.
The impression of sharpness is related to light levels, the higher you have to raise ISO the less data there is above a noise threshold. With light comes color fidelity, dim light loses both detail and color information. So light, its quality, and direction are keys to any photograph and this photo suffers from loss of signal to noise ratio, color fidelity and detail of the eyes because she is facing the darkness instead of the window light.
Photographers often refer to light as being high quality or not. Light is light so what is meant? High quality is a term used to describe the relative apparent cross-section of the light source, to the subject. You window light is good quality of light not because the sun is bright...the sun is a poor quality of light by itself because while being very large, relative to the subject it is a tiny concentrated source a few millimeters across. The high-quality aspect of the sunlight through the window is the fact that the bright light is scattered by the glass, and reflections from all the surfaces hit by that direct light of the sun. The room lights up with a golden glow so the whole left side of the room becomes the light source. Take the same photo outdoors were that scattering is minimal, shadows become very hard, hard-edged and deep. Very unflattering for faces. The same scene on an overcast day and it becomes higher quality due to having the entire cloud layer being the light source, and shadows become soft and diffused.
Shooting a toddler is hard...they are like capturing a cyclone, so it is best to practice with adults or even a manikin such as a hair dresser's styrofoam head used to style wigs. They have fairly flat features which is perfect for learning about shadows and approach angle of the light.
In many cases, highly directional light such as from a cloudless sunny day is desirable but not on faces. We see the contours of a face by the shadows cast by facial features and if those shadows are hard-edged and very dark, it gives an appearance of a much older person, with hard angular features for an overall unflattering look. A light source that is broader relative to the subject, like the room full of scattered light or moving someone into the shade of a tree for a portrait will almost always look more flattering. A broader light source has the trait referred to "wrap" which is how the light source being larger in relation to a face size, the light tends to wrap around the sides of the face. Moving that source, without changing the light, closer, means it appears to be larger in relation to the subject, and moving that light further away shrinks the apparent cross-section of the light so it becomes more directional and shadows become harder.
In summary, the photo has a good expression but hides any detail of the eyes, creates a distraction of well-lit room features that do not add to the story. The low light in the shadows are not as noisy as with lesser cameras, the D500 is the best low light crop sensor camera made so noise is not as bad as with other bodies, but the noise still detracts from the image by hiding details that do contribute to the story. Shadows are not bad, they are as important as light, both are needed in a photo but shadows that hide information essential to a story is not helping.
Good luck and have fun learning about the never-ending path of photography knowledge. Cameras are simple to master, photography is not.
The impression of sharpness is related to light levels, the higher you have to raise ISO the less data there is above a noise threshold. With light comes color fidelity, dim light loses both detail and color information. So light, its quality, and direction are keys to any photograph and this photo suffers from loss of signal to noise ratio, color fidelity and detail of the eyes because she is facing the darkness instead of the window light.
Photographers often refer to light as being high quality or not. Light is light so what is meant? High quality is a term used to describe the relative apparent cross-section of the light source, to the subject. You window light is good quality of light not because the sun is bright...the sun is a poor quality of light by itself because while being very large, relative to the subject it is a tiny concentrated source a few millimeters across. The high-quality aspect of the sunlight through the window is the fact that the bright light is scattered by the glass, and reflections from all the surfaces hit by that direct light of the sun. The room lights up with a golden glow so the whole left side of the room becomes the light source. Take the same photo outdoors were that scattering is minimal, shadows become very hard, hard-edged and deep. Very unflattering for faces. The same scene on an overcast day and it becomes higher quality due to having the entire cloud layer being the light source, and shadows become soft and diffused.
Shooting a toddler is hard...they are like capturing a cyclone, so it is best to practice with adults or even a manikin such as a hair dresser's styrofoam head used to style wigs. They have fairly flat features which is perfect for learning about shadows and approach angle of the light.
In many cases, highly directional light such as from a cloudless sunny day is desirable but not on faces. We see the contours of a face by the shadows cast by facial features and if those shadows are hard-edged and very dark, it gives an appearance of a much older person, with hard angular features for an overall unflattering look. A light source that is broader relative to the subject, like the room full of scattered light or moving someone into the shade of a tree for a portrait will almost always look more flattering. A broader light source has the trait referred to "wrap" which is how the light source being larger in relation to a face size, the light tends to wrap around the sides of the face. Moving that source, without changing the light, closer, means it appears to be larger in relation to the subject, and moving that light further away shrinks the apparent cross-section of the light so it becomes more directional and shadows become harder.
In summary, the photo has a good expression but hides any detail of the eyes, creates a distraction of well-lit room features that do not add to the story. The low light in the shadows are not as noisy as with lesser cameras, the D500 is the best low light crop sensor camera made so noise is not as bad as with other bodies, but the noise still detracts from the image by hiding details that do contribute to the story. Shadows are not bad, they are as important as light, both are needed in a photo but shadows that hide information essential to a story is not helping.
Good luck and have fun learning about the never-ending path of photography knowledge. Cameras are simple to master, photography is not.
Let me start with what you did right. Number one you took the shot, always better to have one a as opposed to none. Number two your prospective it's great, your are down on her level. When at the grand kids house I use a lot of bounce flash. Think it would have helped you out here especially since she is looking up, just a little off the ceiling.
Base on some of others input, this is what I came up with. Hope you don't mind, if you do let me know and I will have post removed.
Original
Straightened, cropped, desaturated face and added 1/3 stop of light to face.
Base on some of others input, this is what I came up with. Hope you don't mind, if you do let me know and I will have post removed.
Original
Straightened, cropped, desaturated face and added 1/3 stop of light to face.
Last edited: