Images not in focus, not sharp and color is strange

What I see in my viewfinder is not the result I am getting with my images.

Here are a few I shot today that are the best of the bunch but need something. Tell me what you see, what you think I am doing wrong and how these could be greatly improved.

I think it is camera shake. They look sharp and clear when I view through the camera but not as an image.

These images are untouched other than a crop and resize.





EXIF for above photo:
F/16, ISO 400, 1/200th sec, 80mm focal length




EXIF for above photo:
f/6.3, ISO 400, 1/40th sec, 80mm focal length



EXIF for above photo:
f/6.3, ISO 400, 1/200th sec, 200mm focal length



EXIF for above photo:
f/6.3, ISO 400, 1/125 sec, 200mm focal length

What focal length and shutter speed are you using?

The first may be diffraction since it's f/16.

The second and third one have camera movement. The shutter speed may be too long for the focal length used.

The squirrel might just be a soft lens.

All photos taken with either a 28-80mm AF Nikkor zoom or my 55-200mm AF-S VR lens.

I will admit that I am a little overwhelmed with all the settings and data on this new camera. I actually paid very little attention to the ISO, shutter speed and aperture.

I did attempt to shoot A priority mostly so as to blur the background. However, I did also use S priority and Program mode.

Fill flash was used in most all of these shots.

I don't use Live View because I cannot clearly see the LCD at close distance without reader glasses. I cannot shoot through the viewfinder with reader glasses on so I refuse to use readers. I am not taking them on and off to shoot pics.

So I guess I am stuck with viewfinder mode.

You still have not been able to tell us much. Shutter speed needs to be approximately the same as the focal length. In other words if you are shooting at 200MM then you need to be shooting at 1/200 or the closest that you can. Probably 1/250sec. Or if yoiu are shooting a 60 mm then 1/60 sec. Anything less and you will get movement.

Mike d90 said:

I actually paid very little attention to the ISO, shutter speed and aperture.

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​I think you identified the problem!

Don Kuykendall said:

You still have not been able to tell us much. Shutter speed needs to be approximately the same as the focal length. In other words if you are shooting at 200MM then you need to be shooting at 1/200 or the closest that you can. Probably 1/250sec. Or if yoiu are shooting a 60 mm then 1/60 sec. Anything less and you will get movement.

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Is all of this info not in the EXIF data?

Rick M said:

​I think you identified the problem!

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And I think you are correct! I was thinking the camera would take care of most of that but I guess you still have to watch it huh?

What would be a better approach? Set S-priority over A-priority? Set everything manually?

Mike d90 said:

Is all of this info not in the EXIF data?

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It is more important that YOU see it and know it.

Mike d90 said:

And I think you are correct! I was thinking the camera would take care of most of that but I guess you still have to watch it huh?

What would be a better approach? Set S-priority over A-priority? Set everything manually?

Click to expand...

Unless I'm shooting fast action, I stick to Aperture mode. Just keep an eye on shutter speed also. ISO is less variable as I set it for the general lighting and don't change it much unless the conditions change.

I went back tot he original images and have added the EXIF data.

Wow, I am stunned! Something wasn't set right.

Anyway, I can see a little of the issue now. Will try again tomorrow and try to watch my settings a little better.

I am not sure about the D90 but my D5100 has a minimum shutter speed setting under the ISO settings in the menu. Many time I will set it to the slowest speed I want for the lens I am using. like for my 55-200 I will go ahead and set it for 1/250. I then set my ISO to auto and 100ISO with a max of maybe 600 depending on the light I have. Then no matter what mode I shoot in it will attempt to keep my shutter speed up high enough to keep motion blur out of my photos. But no matter what you still have to keep an eye on what you are doing.

Mike d90 said:

I don't use Live View because I cannot clearly see the LCD at close distance without reader glasses. I cannot shoot through the viewfinder with reader glasses on so I refuse to use readers. I am not taking them on and off to shoot pics.

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I just wanted to remind you to make sure your viewfinder diopter adjustment is set to your eye. I have older eyes and I might be wearing contacts and using reading glasses too or I might be wearing distance glasses and removing them to read. And sometimes I leave my glasses on to shoot and sometimes not. So I never know where I last left my viewfinder adjustment. Unless I am manually focusing, I tend to leave it at some happy medium and not at its sharpest.

The information is all visible in the viewfinder when you half press the shutter button. It's your task to look at it and make the corrects corrections to get fast enough shutter speeds for the situation you are facing. The other option is to leave the camera in auto mode or select the appropriate scene mode for what you are looking to produce.

nickt said:

I just wanted to remind you to make sure your viewfinder diopter adjustment is set to your eye. I have older eyes and I might be wearing contacts and using reading glasses too or I might be wearing distance glasses and removing them to read. And sometimes I leave my glasses on to shoot and sometimes not. So I never know where I last left my viewfinder adjustment. Unless I am manually focusing, I tend to leave it at some happy medium and not at its sharpest.

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I definitely do that first thing before a shooting.

Marcel said:

The information is all visible in the viewfinder when you half press the shutter button. It's your task to look at it and make the corrects corrections to get fast enough shutter speeds for the situation you are facing. The other option is to leave the camera in auto mode or select the appropriate scene mode for what you are looking to produce.

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Yes, I see the info is there. Today was my first outing with this thing and, as stated before, it was a bit overwhelming. So much info everywhere and not knowing how to quickly make the adjustments. More practice!!

Mike d90 said:

Yes, I see the info is there. Today was my first outing with this thing and, as stated before, it was a bit overwhelming. So much info everywhere and not knowing how to quickly make the adjustments. More practice!!

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There you go Mike, practice is the key. But it's also the fun and pride of learning. As long as you learn from your mistakes, you will be improving and with time you get to be proud of your photography.

Welcome within our group and enjoy your Nikon.

Don Kuykendall said:

You still have not been able to tell us much. Shutter speed needs to be approximately the same as the focal length. In other words if you are shooting at 200MM then you need to be shooting at 1/200 or the closest that you can. Probably 1/250sec. Or if yoiu are shooting a 60 mm then 1/60 sec. Anything less and you will get movement.

Click to expand...

I would like to add that Don is talking about the MINIMUM shutter speed needed. Your shutter speed should be at least as much as your focal length or more to help remove camera shake. If your hands are not steady it may even need to be higher.

grandpaw said:

I would like to add that Don is talking about the MINIMUM shutter speed needed. Your shutter speed should be at least as much as your focal length or more to help remove camera shake. If your hands are not steady it may even need to be higher.

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You also have to take into effect DX which gives you a longer effective focal length. I have found that VR lenses for the most part take care of the difference.