Light Meter Suggestions

WhiteLight

Senior Member
Am going to the dealer today to check on something & thought it would be good to see if i can add a light meter..
am not sure if too many brands are available here, but he said he has Sekonic meters..
any suggestions?
 

rocketman122

Senior Member
Am going to the dealer today to check on something & thought it would be good to see if i can add a light meter..
am not sure if too many brands are available here, but he said he has Sekonic meters..
any suggestions?

gossen minolta or sekonic all make great light meters. if you do a lot of studio work then investing in a more feature rich model might be fine, but me personally, I still have my 10 yr old sekonic 718 and 5º spot add on and it does more than what I need. only thing I hate is that it does shutter speed in full stops only, but, I get along. I dont see a reason to invest a lot in a light meter. I salute you for buying one. everyone should learn how to use one. incident spot reflective.

I personally would look at an older L-508 or 608. they charge way too much for a light meter today. something that was way more relevant with studio and film where you needed extreme accuracy when shooting with slide film. today, point, shoot, adjust on the fly.
 

Geoffc

Senior Member
Am going to the dealer today to check on something & thought it would be good to see if i can add a light meter..
am not sure if too many brands are available here, but he said he has Sekonic meters..
any suggestions?

What do you intend to use it for? When I got one I thought I would try and use it for landscape as well as studio flash use. I borrowed a Sekonic 758 with spot meter but found I was able to achieve much the same with the camera meter. Also modern sensors have so much latitude the you can normally adjust in post if you are off a bit. Purists will no doubt think I should be shot for saying that.

Based on the above I bought a Sekonic 758DR which is great for studio as it triggers my pocket wizard wireless triggers. In truth I may have been able to get away with a Sekonic 308 and manually trigger the flash but I got the 478 for a good price.

So in summary I would say to get an entry level unit and see what you use it before before buying a top end unit, unless you already have some specific functionality that you've identified. If you bought a 308 you would get most of your money back if you upgrade in the future.

Have a good look at this chart to help you decide

http://www.sekonic.com/products/all/comparisonchart.aspx


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 

John P

Senior Member
I have Sekonic L-358. I really like it, although I wish it had a built in spot meter.Most of my local camera shops have Sekonic meters for sale used at great prices.Most of the used ones were purchased and used very little, if at all.I would not hesitate to purchase a used meter.
 

FastGlass

Senior Member
I have the Sekonic L-758dr. Love it. Has more bells and whistles than others which because their there I learned to use them and makes situations simpler. Like most products, you use it for what it's capable of.
 

WayneF

Senior Member
I did this poll a while back, has some good info in it.

http://nikonites.com/other-photogra...nikonites-use-light-meters.html#axzz305cF3TXq

i was looking at Sekonic and decided if I get into a studio situation then I would get one, but no need for me now.


The poll sure was vague though. It does not differentiate between camera internal meter or a handheld meter.
The poll also does not differentiate between usage for typical landscapes, or for studio flash sessions.
So it could mean several things, and we have no clue why people answered as they did.

We all use a light meter, one is in the camera. It is a reflected meter, and an incident meter certainly has strong advantages (except for fill flash, this is probably the only reason to use a handheld meter outdoors). But, we can and do learn to use reflected.
But the camera meter does not meter multiple studio flash. Not everyone uses studio lights, but if you do, you certainly will appreciate the handheld meter (no other way to do it). Even the commander only controls two individual lights, but our setup might use four. Handheld meter is incident, the commander is reflected. These are big differences, and a big deal.

This all seems pretty obvious, but none of it is ever mentioned in this type of discussion. Many people don't understand why a handheld meter might be used. But we really do need to qualify what we are talking about. :)

The Sekonic L308S is the simpler and less expensive Sekonic, and it is great for studio flash sessions. It measures the flash, individually, so we can set their power right, and know what they are doing.

The handheld meter also works outdoors, incident, and it also does reflected (but L308S does not do spot, which is reflected. If you meter the incident light itself, spot has no meaning). If you want to use reflected metering, the camera meter has advantages (same angle of view as the lens), and it is hard to beat.

However (a bigger deal) - the L308S model is shutter preferred readings only. Which is perfect for flash, that is how flash works, no issue.
But if used outdoors for landscapes, the L308S can work of course, but we might prefer one that also does aperture preferred.

The L308S does not have any of the frills seen in more expensive models. It simply meters the flash lights, and does what it needs to do, but no frills.
I use a L308S (for studio flash), and it's great for me. I use the camera meter for all else.

Among these missing frills in economy model is the ability to store and compare two readings, to tell us computed difference in two readings (two lights for lighting ratio). How much difference is there between f/10 and f/6.3? (ratio). However, it will meter in tenth stops, and then the difference in two is totally trivial to compare in our heads, no issue at all. Easier than messing with more buttons.

The L308S also is not setup to accept a PocketWizard addon to trigger metering remotely. Maybe not many that are interested in saving a few bucks is going to buy a set of four pocketwizards however, so your concern may vary. :)

To illustrate the most common way a hand meter would be used (for studio lights):

I use the L308S by connecting a 15 foot PC sync cord between meter and ONE flash. A button on the meter triggers the flash and meters it. Then I move the cord to the next of four lights (and turn only it on), and repeat. This is to set each light to the power I want it to be. Like maybe main f/8, fill f/5.6 or less, background maybe f/8, and hair light depends on hair color. Then I know what I am doing.
Then I turn on only main and fill (no background, no hair light, etc) and meter this exposure for the camera.
Then move sync cord from meter to camera, and go at it. This connects to the near light, which is the fill light, back near the camera, behind and above camera in my case.

If you are using multiple studio flash, there are not many options... not optional.

If you want to play with landscapes outdoors, that is another story (optional). The camera meter will do that too (reflected).
 
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Krs_2007

Senior Member
The poll sure was vague though. It does not differentiate between camera internal meter or a handheld meter.
The poll also does not differentiate between usage for typical landscapes, or for studio flash sessions.
So it could mean several things, and we have no clue why people answered as they did.

We all use a light meter, one is in the camera. It is a reflected meter, and an incident meter certainly has strong advantages (probably the only reason to use a handheld meter outdoors). But, we can and do learn to use reflected.
But the camera meter does not meter multiple studio flash. Not everyone uses studio lights, but if you do, you certainly will appreciate the handheld meter (no other way to do it). Even the commander only controls two individual lights, but our setup might use four. Handheld meter is incident, the commander is reflected. These are big differences, and a big deal.

This all seems pretty obvious, but none of it is ever mentioned in this type of discussion. Many people don't understand why a handheld meter might be used. But we really do need to qualify what we are talking about. :)

The Sekonic L308S is the simpler and less expensive Sekonic, and it is great for studio flash sessions. It measures the flash, individually, so we can set their power right, and know what they are doing.

The handheld meter also works outdoors, and it also does reflected (but L308S does not do spot, which is reflected).
However the L308S model is shutter preferred readings only. Which is perfect for flash, that is how flash works, no issue.
But if used outdoors for landscapes, the L308S can work of course, but we might prefer one that also does aperture preferred.

The L308S does not have any of the frills seen in more expensive models. It simply meters the flash lights, and does what it needs to do, but no frills.
I use a L308S (for studio flash), and it's great for me. I use the camera meter for all else.

Among these missing frills in economy model is the ability to store and compare two readings, to tell us computed difference in two readings (two lights for lighting ratio). How much difference is there between f/10 and f/6.3? (ratio). However, it will meter in tenth stops, and then the difference in two is totally trivial to compare in our heads, no issue at all. Easier than messing with more buttons.

The L308S also is not setup to accept a PocketWizard addon to trigger metering remotely. Maybe not many that are interested in saving a few bucks is going to buy a set of four pocketwizards however, so your concern may vary. :)

To illustrate the most common way a hand meter would be used (for studio lights):

I use the L308S by connecting a 15 foot PC sync cord between meter and ONE flash. A button the meter triggers the flash and meters it. Then I move the cord to the next of four lights, and repeat. This is to set each light to to power I want it to be. Maybe main f/8, fill f/5.6 or less, background maybe f/8, and hair light depends on hair color.
Then I turn on only main and fill (no background, no hair light, etc) and meter this exposure for the camera.
Then move sync cord from meter to camera, and go at it.

If you are using multiple studio flash, there are not many options... not optional.

If you want to play with landscapes outdoors, that is another story (optional). The camera meter will do that too (reflected).

i posted it because of the info, I know the poll was vague and not the point, the comments were what I thought was good. Diverse selection of meter options. The poll was sufficient in the sense of asking who uses a hand held light meter and not meant to be scientific by any means. If you read my comments, I had updated to ask specifically about hand held but was unable to edit the poll and didn't want to start over due to existing comments.

Wow, thanks.
 
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WhiteLight

Senior Member
@Geoffc @WayneF [MENTION=9693]John P[/MENTION] @FredKingston @Krs_2007

Appreciate the input guys.. helped me understand things a lot better

i am mainly looking at this light meter for studio use..
i am happy with my camera meter for landscape :)

i don't really want any bells & whistles like touch screen and stuff..
i don't really need radio triggering with PWs cos i have the Skyport system, don't believe they would work with this..

so i am leaning towards the Sekonic L-308S or the L-358
i think the 358 would just give me a little more room to grow into, unless any of you feel that there is no need to move from the 308 to 358 in terms of additional features...
 

ShootRaw

Senior Member
Get the 358...I was gonna get one, but after studying Joel grimes work..(He always uses 3 lights and has not used a meter in 25 years)..I feel like I rather put my $ into another strobe or modifier..
The back of the camera has always worked just fine for me...
 

Geoffc

Senior Member
Get the 358...I was gonna get one, but after studying Joel grimes work..(He always uses 3 lights and has not used a meter in 25 years)..I feel like I rather put my $ into another strobe or modifier..
The back of the camera has always worked just fine for me...

He probably only shoots jpg as well because he gets it right in camera every time and post processing is for sissies :)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 

ShootRaw

Senior Member
I know a light meter is a great tool...I have gone back and forth about getting one..On Ebay the 358 is about $225-$300
But very nervous about getting a used one..So that leaves me the newer 758d or dr... $329-$400 new...Im in need of one more Einstein which is $500...So that is why I am very reluctant to dish out $400 for a meter...just sayin
 

WayneF

Senior Member
But very nervous about getting a used one..

People buy used cameras, which have intricate moving shutter mechanisms (with finite lifetimes).

And they buy used lenses with precise moving zoom and focus and aperture mechanisms (linkage to camera meter, etc).

Light meters do have a few buttons, but otherwise, are all semiconductor, no moving parts.

Just saying.
 
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Steve B

Senior Member
I have a Sekonic L-758DR that I use mainly for studio work. It allows me to get the intensity and lighting ratios set up with my Paul Bluff strobes ahead of time. Saves me a lot of time when it comes time to shoot. Take a look at some of the archived webinars that Sekonic has on their web site. Archived Webinars The ones done by Joe Brady are especially relevant if your interest is in landscape photography.
 

ShootRaw

Senior Member
People buy used cameras, which have intricate moving shutter mechanisms (with finite lifetimes).

And they buy used lenses with precise moving zoom and focus and aperture mechanisms (linkage to camera meter, etc).

Light meters do have a few buttons, but otherwise, are all semiconductor, no moving parts.

Just saying.

Im just one of those people who do not like to buy used ,do to not knowing how the previous owner handled the gear..Sometimes things can be dropped with no visible signs of neglect..just sayin..That is my line..lol P.s I love watching Joe Brady's tutorials...
 

WayneF

Senior Member
Im just one of those people who do not like to buy used ,do to not knowing how the previous owner handled the gear..Sometimes things can be dropped with no visible signs of neglect..just sayin..That is my line..lol P.s I love watching Joe Brady's tutorials...


If they are selling the meter, they probably never used it. Just saying. :)
 

WhiteLight

Senior Member
Wondering if by any chance anyone knows of any ebay seller or other online store that ships used Light Meters to India?
Maybe even for freee?? Lol
 
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