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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D600/D610
Yongnuo YN-565EX For D600 ???
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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 349443" data-attributes="member: 12496"><p>I usually use a 70-200 lens around 110mm for waist-up portraits at ten feet (FX camera). Which is indoors, and any normal ambient is not a problem if at f/8 1/200 second ISO 100 (no reason studio work should not use 1/200 to keep out the ambient). Even the modeling lights on the studio flash seem very bright, but they are not a problem. The test is to pull the sync cord once so the flash will not trigger, and with the modeling lights and ambient, the picture is black (at same 1/200 second f/8 ISO 100). If it is almost black, there's no big problem. But higher ISO or wider aperture, or slower shutter speed, could become an issue, but the black test will show how much.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Here is one of my ganging trys:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.scantips.com//lights/umb/dse_8812.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p></p><p>Just flat bar stock from Home Depot, with three 1/4" holes drilled. It worked.</p><p></p><p>ISO 400 is probably fine, and you could gang them, but just put the umbrellas closer. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> The main light should be "close as possible" anyway (big and close for softness, but close helps power too). The subject probably can reach out and touch the light stand pole, it is barely out of the picture. Fill is lower level and can be back by the camera lens.</p><p></p><p>I started with speedlights, and my SB-800s (which are stronger than some) could do ISO 200 f/11 (barely) in a 45 inch reflected white umbrella, with the light stand pole at 24 inches from subjects nose. I used f/8, or maybe f/5.6, to gain some recycle speed.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Yes, Nikon, an ancient 50mm f/1.8, and a 70-200 at 150mm. It was a really too-fast try, should have been thought out better (I discovered I had no room to backup a few steps with the longer lens. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> ) I used the DX D300 instead of the D800 because DX has a bit more depth of field than FX, and more people use DX. Shooting in the dark at f/1.8 is obviously one thing, but using f/1.8 in bright light when a longer lens works better is something else. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 349443, member: 12496"] I usually use a 70-200 lens around 110mm for waist-up portraits at ten feet (FX camera). Which is indoors, and any normal ambient is not a problem if at f/8 1/200 second ISO 100 (no reason studio work should not use 1/200 to keep out the ambient). Even the modeling lights on the studio flash seem very bright, but they are not a problem. The test is to pull the sync cord once so the flash will not trigger, and with the modeling lights and ambient, the picture is black (at same 1/200 second f/8 ISO 100). If it is almost black, there's no big problem. But higher ISO or wider aperture, or slower shutter speed, could become an issue, but the black test will show how much. Here is one of my ganging trys: [IMG]http://www.scantips.com//lights/umb/dse_8812.jpg[/IMG] Just flat bar stock from Home Depot, with three 1/4" holes drilled. It worked. ISO 400 is probably fine, and you could gang them, but just put the umbrellas closer. :) The main light should be "close as possible" anyway (big and close for softness, but close helps power too). The subject probably can reach out and touch the light stand pole, it is barely out of the picture. Fill is lower level and can be back by the camera lens. I started with speedlights, and my SB-800s (which are stronger than some) could do ISO 200 f/11 (barely) in a 45 inch reflected white umbrella, with the light stand pole at 24 inches from subjects nose. I used f/8, or maybe f/5.6, to gain some recycle speed. Yes, Nikon, an ancient 50mm f/1.8, and a 70-200 at 150mm. It was a really too-fast try, should have been thought out better (I discovered I had no room to backup a few steps with the longer lens. :) ) I used the DX D300 instead of the D800 because DX has a bit more depth of field than FX, and more people use DX. Shooting in the dark at f/1.8 is obviously one thing, but using f/1.8 in bright light when a longer lens works better is something else. :) [/QUOTE]
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Yongnuo YN-565EX For D600 ???
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