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<blockquote data-quote="spb_stan" data-source="post: 655518" data-attributes="member: 43545"><p>How close will you be, and what is the light level. If I was given this assignment, I would go look at the venue to see the light levels at the time of day of the event. Take a photo with the fastest lens you have if you do not have a light meter, to get an idea of what ISO is needed for the fastest aperture you have available. Wrestling in not terribly fast so a shutter speed in manual exposure mode of 1/500 should be enough speed for HS level. College is faster.</p><p>Take all the shots in RAW NEF format so selective noise reduction can be done in post processing</p><p> </p><p>if you are 20 feet away or less, f2.8 will present depth of field problems but whole bodies should be in the DOF with a 200mm lens at about 30 feet. f/4 is about as slow an aperture as you could get by with in a high school gym. There will be a big difference in light and shadow on the mat than the overall scene so use spot metering mode and single point center AF point. Pre-focus on the center of the mat so your AF time is shorter on whatever lens you use. A 70-200 2.8 is a good choice for focusing speed and aperture. Any other focusing point other than dead center will slow down the AF and end up with fewer keepers in low light.</p><p>If you have problems with enough light for proper exposure, don't slow the shutter to get exposure, but let is underexpose. Modern sensors are mostly ISO invariant when means there is no difference in IQ underexposed using lower ISO and boosting brightness in post processing than exposing correctly in the camera, but the former way allows keeping the shutter speed up for freezing action. They will look dark in the monitor but you can boost shadows 3-5 stops in post processing with modern Nikon cameras. That is one important reason to have Nikon over Canon sensors which do not have ISO invariance, if you had Canon and needed to boost brightness in post, you would end up with a noise mess with banding and color artifacts. Use no more shutter speed than you actually need however. Raising it to 1/2000 will result in frozen action but too much noise to be usable.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="spb_stan, post: 655518, member: 43545"] How close will you be, and what is the light level. If I was given this assignment, I would go look at the venue to see the light levels at the time of day of the event. Take a photo with the fastest lens you have if you do not have a light meter, to get an idea of what ISO is needed for the fastest aperture you have available. Wrestling in not terribly fast so a shutter speed in manual exposure mode of 1/500 should be enough speed for HS level. College is faster. Take all the shots in RAW NEF format so selective noise reduction can be done in post processing if you are 20 feet away or less, f2.8 will present depth of field problems but whole bodies should be in the DOF with a 200mm lens at about 30 feet. f/4 is about as slow an aperture as you could get by with in a high school gym. There will be a big difference in light and shadow on the mat than the overall scene so use spot metering mode and single point center AF point. Pre-focus on the center of the mat so your AF time is shorter on whatever lens you use. A 70-200 2.8 is a good choice for focusing speed and aperture. Any other focusing point other than dead center will slow down the AF and end up with fewer keepers in low light. If you have problems with enough light for proper exposure, don't slow the shutter to get exposure, but let is underexpose. Modern sensors are mostly ISO invariant when means there is no difference in IQ underexposed using lower ISO and boosting brightness in post processing than exposing correctly in the camera, but the former way allows keeping the shutter speed up for freezing action. They will look dark in the monitor but you can boost shadows 3-5 stops in post processing with modern Nikon cameras. That is one important reason to have Nikon over Canon sensors which do not have ISO invariance, if you had Canon and needed to boost brightness in post, you would end up with a noise mess with banding and color artifacts. Use no more shutter speed than you actually need however. Raising it to 1/2000 will result in frozen action but too much noise to be usable. [/QUOTE]
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