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<blockquote data-quote="Mike D90" data-source="post: 275562" data-attributes="member: 17556"><p>What I do sometimes is meter the ground, some green grass or something kind of neutral colored that is in the same light as the scene I am shooting. Hold the exposure using the half press of the shutter button, or take note of the exposure values and set manually, or use the exposure lock button function and then recompose/focus as you want to see the shot framed.</p><p></p><p>That way you meter something that is neutral and not some thing dark or super bright.</p><p></p><p>The camera wants to expose everything it meters as a neutral gray (called 18% gray). If you meter something really dark it bumps up the exposure to make the dark object 18% gray which blows out your sky. If you meter something really bright, like the sky, the camera bumps down the exposure to make the sky 18% gray and makes your dark objects really dark or even black.</p><p></p><p>As said before matrix metering tries to consider the information that is in the entire frame but, as Jake pointed out, will usually bias its decision towards whatever was/is in the focus area which is usually never the neutral part of the scene.</p><p></p><p>This is why some people use a gray card (18% gray card) to use as a metering target. Placed in the same light as what is hitting your main subject , fill the lens/viewfinder with the gray card, half press the shutter button and you will see what the correct exposure should be for that scene. Compare that reading with a reading taken off of your subject or off the sky. Adjust accordingly or bracket some shots that average the values from all readings.</p><p></p><p>Once you have done this a few times you will have a better understanding of exposure. Then learn your exposure compensation button. When you meter something dark with a very bright background or sky you will know to dial in possibly +1.5 to +2.0 EV to adjust the exposure. If you are shooting something bright against a dark background or sky you would dial in maybe -1.5 to -2.0 EV.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Mike D90, post: 275562, member: 17556"] What I do sometimes is meter the ground, some green grass or something kind of neutral colored that is in the same light as the scene I am shooting. Hold the exposure using the half press of the shutter button, or take note of the exposure values and set manually, or use the exposure lock button function and then recompose/focus as you want to see the shot framed. That way you meter something that is neutral and not some thing dark or super bright. The camera wants to expose everything it meters as a neutral gray (called 18% gray). If you meter something really dark it bumps up the exposure to make the dark object 18% gray which blows out your sky. If you meter something really bright, like the sky, the camera bumps down the exposure to make the sky 18% gray and makes your dark objects really dark or even black. As said before matrix metering tries to consider the information that is in the entire frame but, as Jake pointed out, will usually bias its decision towards whatever was/is in the focus area which is usually never the neutral part of the scene. This is why some people use a gray card (18% gray card) to use as a metering target. Placed in the same light as what is hitting your main subject , fill the lens/viewfinder with the gray card, half press the shutter button and you will see what the correct exposure should be for that scene. Compare that reading with a reading taken off of your subject or off the sky. Adjust accordingly or bracket some shots that average the values from all readings. Once you have done this a few times you will have a better understanding of exposure. Then learn your exposure compensation button. When you meter something dark with a very bright background or sky you will know to dial in possibly +1.5 to +2.0 EV to adjust the exposure. If you are shooting something bright against a dark background or sky you would dial in maybe -1.5 to -2.0 EV. [/QUOTE]
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