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<blockquote data-quote="aroy" data-source="post: 316061" data-attributes="member: 16090">In a high contrast scene it is always difficult to decide what and where to meter.. If the main subject is in relative shadow, then metering on it will over expose the brighter areas. If exposing for bright areas, then the main subject is dark.. If the main subject is in bright light then metering on it will under expose the rest, if exposing for the rest the main subject will get blown.So you have to decide where to expose depending on what you want to see and what you do not mind blowing.Modern sensors have helped a lot in resolving this dilemma. If the DR is within the sensor's range, just meter for the brightest and then recover the shadows in post processing. That is what I do normally with my D3300, unless the main subject is -5EV or less than the brightest part, in that case I let the brightest parts blow as they may not be necessary ( for example sky in back ground when I am shooting flowers).If you want every thing properly exposed; from the darkest to the brightest; then HDR is your only recourse. Of course if in future we get sensors with a DR of 20EV and 24bit RAW most of the problems will be resolved. This is not an impossibility, as we have advanced fro a DR of 8EV to 14EV in a decade.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="aroy, post: 316061, member: 16090"] In a high contrast scene it is always difficult to decide what and where to meter. . If the main subject is in relative shadow, then metering on it will over expose the brighter areas. If exposing for bright areas, then the main subject is dark. . If the main subject is in bright light then metering on it will under expose the rest, if exposing for the rest the main subject will get blown. So you have to decide where to expose depending on what you want to see and what you do not mind blowing. Modern sensors have helped a lot in resolving this dilemma. If the DR is within the sensor's range, just meter for the brightest and then recover the shadows in post processing. That is what I do normally with my D3300, unless the main subject is -5EV or less than the brightest part, in that case I let the brightest parts blow as they may not be necessary ( for example sky in back ground when I am shooting flowers). If you want every thing properly exposed; from the darkest to the brightest; then HDR is your only recourse. Of course if in future we get sensors with a DR of 20EV and 24bit RAW most of the problems will be resolved. This is not an impossibility, as we have advanced fro a DR of 8EV to 14EV in a decade. [/QUOTE]

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