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What's the best way to make up for lost exposure when reducing flash power?
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<blockquote data-quote="pforsell" data-source="post: 497501" data-attributes="member: 7240"><p>It unfortunately seems that auto ISO, auto flash (i-TTL) and auto metering (matrix) together build a maze that the camera brains cannot reliably find a way out. And if you decide to add auto exposure mode (P, A, S, scene modes) to the mix, there's too many moving parts to get consistent results.</p><p></p><p>The gadgets need human intervention. Luck has nothing to do with it and auto modes are brainless random modes. Our brains can solve these problems because we understand what is important in the scene and what is irrelevant. Lighting a model pleasantly and beautifully is art, and operating the gadgets to get what we want is skill. Some of us are born with art in their veins, but the skill part needs practice, a lot of it. </p><p></p><p>I have solved this equation by using fixed ISO, manual exposure mode, shutter and aperture adjusted for the ambient, and often i-TTL with manually fine tuning the flash output. In my typical usage scenarios I have found that </p><p>* bounce flash usually needs +1 stop flash compensation</p><p>* direct flash in i-TTL BL mode none and </p><p>* i-TTL direct about -1.7 stops FC</p><p></p><p>Whenever the scene is static enough to allow it, I prefer to use manual flash too. If I mess up, there's no one else to blame. I don't recommend my style to anyone, it just is the way I have done it 30+ years.</p><p></p><p>Also note, that the Nikon exposure meter weighs the active focus point. In auto modes the exposure/flash output depends on where the AF point happens to land. In the same scene if it is on the brides cheek, on her white dress or on his black tux, the exposure settings will differ. Not as much as when using spot metering, but a little bit anyway. </p><p></p><p>Find an agreeable model or a skin-toned mannequin head, make a pot of your favorite hot beverage, and shoot one set of flash batteries flat. Make notes as you go. Try to find simple to remember rules-of-thumb (like mine above) to use as the base point. Fine tune in location as needed (colored ceiling, high ceiling, windows, ...). It is not rocket science and you can adjust small image brightness and white balance issues in post processing in a few seconds.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="pforsell, post: 497501, member: 7240"] It unfortunately seems that auto ISO, auto flash (i-TTL) and auto metering (matrix) together build a maze that the camera brains cannot reliably find a way out. And if you decide to add auto exposure mode (P, A, S, scene modes) to the mix, there's too many moving parts to get consistent results. The gadgets need human intervention. Luck has nothing to do with it and auto modes are brainless random modes. Our brains can solve these problems because we understand what is important in the scene and what is irrelevant. Lighting a model pleasantly and beautifully is art, and operating the gadgets to get what we want is skill. Some of us are born with art in their veins, but the skill part needs practice, a lot of it. I have solved this equation by using fixed ISO, manual exposure mode, shutter and aperture adjusted for the ambient, and often i-TTL with manually fine tuning the flash output. In my typical usage scenarios I have found that * bounce flash usually needs +1 stop flash compensation * direct flash in i-TTL BL mode none and * i-TTL direct about -1.7 stops FC Whenever the scene is static enough to allow it, I prefer to use manual flash too. If I mess up, there's no one else to blame. I don't recommend my style to anyone, it just is the way I have done it 30+ years. Also note, that the Nikon exposure meter weighs the active focus point. In auto modes the exposure/flash output depends on where the AF point happens to land. In the same scene if it is on the brides cheek, on her white dress or on his black tux, the exposure settings will differ. Not as much as when using spot metering, but a little bit anyway. Find an agreeable model or a skin-toned mannequin head, make a pot of your favorite hot beverage, and shoot one set of flash batteries flat. Make notes as you go. Try to find simple to remember rules-of-thumb (like mine above) to use as the base point. Fine tune in location as needed (colored ceiling, high ceiling, windows, ...). It is not rocket science and you can adjust small image brightness and white balance issues in post processing in a few seconds. [/QUOTE]
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What's the best way to make up for lost exposure when reducing flash power?
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