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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 788726" data-attributes="member: 12496">That would be a &quot;regular&quot; type studio light, which implements low power by recycling recharge to a lower voltage level.&nbsp; That makes it be a bit &quot;sluggish&quot;, only meaning that (the complete opposite of speedlights), low power is slower (longer duration) than maximum power. So the 1/800 second would be minimum power, and 1/2000 would be maximum power. 400 watts seems likely to be too much power for portrait situations, but the dancer would be a further distance and might use much of 400 watts.Speedlights conversely always recycle recharge to full maximum voltage, but cut the flash off short (shorter duration) to implement lower power.&nbsp; So without the cooler trailing fade-away &quot;tail&quot;, this makes their color temperature become less red at low power, where the voltage controlled studio flash type becomes more red at low power.&nbsp; Opposite to the way painter artists think of warm or cool color, physics says blue is a hotter flash than red.Either type flash does their purpose well, but for either one, different power levels produce different color, so a White Balance card and a Color Temperature tool (click the card area in the first test picture) can easily and perfectly adjust color, which is NOT inconvenient in a fixed portrait setup.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 788726, member: 12496"] That would be a "regular" type studio light, which implements low power by recycling recharge to a lower voltage level. That makes it be a bit "sluggish", only meaning that (the complete opposite of speedlights), low power is slower (longer duration) than maximum power. So the 1/800 second would be minimum power, and 1/2000 would be maximum power. 400 watts seems likely to be too much power for portrait situations, but the dancer would be a further distance and might use much of 400 watts. Speedlights conversely always recycle recharge to full maximum voltage, but cut the flash off short (shorter duration) to implement lower power. So without the cooler trailing fade-away "tail", this makes their color temperature become less red at low power, where the voltage controlled studio flash type becomes more red at low power. Opposite to the way painter artists think of warm or cool color, physics says blue is a hotter flash than red. Either type flash does their purpose well, but for either one, different power levels produce different color, so a White Balance card and a Color Temperature tool (click the card area in the first test picture) can easily and perfectly adjust color, which is NOT inconvenient in a fixed portrait setup. [/QUOTE]

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