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What shooting RAW can do.
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<blockquote data-quote="aroy" data-source="post: 377131" data-attributes="member: 16090"><p>Actually I use NX-D. View NX is rarely used.</p><p></p><p>Here are the steps</p><p></p><p><strong>1. Data Transfer</strong></p><p>- Connect the camera to the computer using USB cable</p><p>- Open the card in file manager and go to the directory having the images</p><p>- Copy the current images to a temp directory</p><p>- Batch rename DSC-* to ESC-.*. The reason is that I have crossed 10,000 images and would like the names to be unique. After this I will rename the files FSC, GSC ..... till I hit ZSC. Then I will be at end of shutter life and change the body!.</p><p></p><p><strong>2. Pre Processing</strong></p><p>- Create the directory to hold RAW images. The directory structure I use is D3300->RAW->YYYY-MM->YYYY-MM-DD. So that all my images are stored date wise.</p><p>- Open NX-D</p><p>- Select the current directory, from the tree view</p><p>- Select all the images in the directory : select the first image, hold the SHIFT KEY, go to the end using either mouse or right arrow</p><p>- Switch <strong>NR OFF</strong></p><p>- Select <strong>VIVID</strong> in Picture control window</p><p>- Set <strong>Sharpness</strong> to <strong>7</strong> in Picture control window</p><p></p><p><strong>3. Adjustments - Exposure</strong></p><p>- Use <strong>Exposure Compensation</strong> window to set the exposure</p><p>- If the histogram overflows to the right, happens with RED and BLUE dominant images, shift the exposure to Left, till histogram is just about correct</p><p>- Use Active D-lighting to recover shadows. Choose one of the following depending on how much shadows you want to expose</p><p>.- Low</p><p>. Normal</p><p>. High</p><p>. Extra High 1</p><p>. Extra High 2</p><p>- After selecting the D-lighting options, the histogram may shift right, so shift it left by reducing the exposure compensation, till you are satified with the image</p><p></p><p><strong>4. Adjustments - Contrast</strong></p><p>- Use the contrast slider in <strong>Tone</strong> window to change the contrast</p><p></p><p><strong>5. Noise Reduction</strong></p><p>- Use <strong>Noise Reduction Window</strong></p><p><strong></strong>- I normally shoot at ISO 100, so there is no need for NR. If I use ISO 200, 400 or 800 then I use NR</p><p>- Switch on NR</p><p>- Select Better Quality 2013</p><p>- Reduce the Sharpness to 4. If the image is still grainy, then keep reducing to 3, 2, 1. Stop when it is acceptable</p><p></p><p>That is about all I do, apart from cropping.</p><p></p><p>For those who want to control the exposure, dynamic range and colour there are plenty of other controls</p><p></p><p><strong>6. Levels and Curves</strong></p><p>You can design your response curve to map 12/14 bit sensor data to 8 bit jpeg/tiff. Active-D does than in predetermined settings, but you can play around with the curve to get unique effects. I have tried it a couple of times, but have realised that for day to day stuff the standard values are enough. If I have to match the colour and levels against a White Balance/ Colour card, then I will have to use this feature</p><p></p><p><strong>7. Distortion Control</strong></p><p>This window corrects for known lense distortions and CA. I use it only when I want to do any quantitative analysis and need perfect geometry, else I ignore this feature.</p><p></p><p><strong>8. White Balance</strong></p><p>I use the default, except when I want to correct for the colour cast of a flash or yellow lights, so favoured here. Tinkering with WB results in all sorts of ambiance, which I am, at least as of now, not a fan of.</p><p></p><p>That is about all I do, though there are a lot more options for advanced users.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="aroy, post: 377131, member: 16090"] Actually I use NX-D. View NX is rarely used. Here are the steps [B]1. Data Transfer[/B] - Connect the camera to the computer using USB cable - Open the card in file manager and go to the directory having the images - Copy the current images to a temp directory - Batch rename DSC-* to ESC-.*. The reason is that I have crossed 10,000 images and would like the names to be unique. After this I will rename the files FSC, GSC ..... till I hit ZSC. Then I will be at end of shutter life and change the body!. [B]2. Pre Processing[/B] - Create the directory to hold RAW images. The directory structure I use is D3300->RAW->YYYY-MM->YYYY-MM-DD. So that all my images are stored date wise. - Open NX-D - Select the current directory, from the tree view - Select all the images in the directory : select the first image, hold the SHIFT KEY, go to the end using either mouse or right arrow - Switch [B]NR OFF[/B] - Select [B]VIVID[/B] in Picture control window - Set [B]Sharpness[/B] to [B]7[/B] in Picture control window [B]3. Adjustments - Exposure[/B] - Use [B]Exposure Compensation[/B] window to set the exposure - If the histogram overflows to the right, happens with RED and BLUE dominant images, shift the exposure to Left, till histogram is just about correct - Use Active D-lighting to recover shadows. Choose one of the following depending on how much shadows you want to expose .- Low . Normal . High . Extra High 1 . Extra High 2 - After selecting the D-lighting options, the histogram may shift right, so shift it left by reducing the exposure compensation, till you are satified with the image [B]4. Adjustments - Contrast[/B] - Use the contrast slider in [B]Tone[/B] window to change the contrast [B]5. Noise Reduction[/B] - Use [B]Noise Reduction Window [/B]- I normally shoot at ISO 100, so there is no need for NR. If I use ISO 200, 400 or 800 then I use NR - Switch on NR - Select Better Quality 2013 - Reduce the Sharpness to 4. If the image is still grainy, then keep reducing to 3, 2, 1. Stop when it is acceptable That is about all I do, apart from cropping. For those who want to control the exposure, dynamic range and colour there are plenty of other controls [B]6. Levels and Curves[/B] You can design your response curve to map 12/14 bit sensor data to 8 bit jpeg/tiff. Active-D does than in predetermined settings, but you can play around with the curve to get unique effects. I have tried it a couple of times, but have realised that for day to day stuff the standard values are enough. If I have to match the colour and levels against a White Balance/ Colour card, then I will have to use this feature [B]7. Distortion Control[/B] This window corrects for known lense distortions and CA. I use it only when I want to do any quantitative analysis and need perfect geometry, else I ignore this feature. [B]8. White Balance[/B] I use the default, except when I want to correct for the colour cast of a flash or yellow lights, so favoured here. Tinkering with WB results in all sorts of ambiance, which I am, at least as of now, not a fan of. That is about all I do, though there are a lot more options for advanced users. [/QUOTE]
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