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Message: <blockquote data-quote="voxmagna" data-source="post: 564041" data-attributes="member: 38477">Thanks, perhaps I should have started a new thread 'Do you use AUTO ISO' as I'm leaning towards not using it. I can see if you must get some kind of shot whatever the light level it will work and I would put AUTO ISO definitely in the camera point and shoot AUTO feature mode, but the results when you start editing and cropping could show high ISO noise. I'm coming around to thinking ISO gain control on a DSLR is doing no more than exposure gain correction in post. If you are getting correct exposure using the controls you don't need AUTO ISO to start doing things you can't understand. But post is better because you can selectively control the curve rather than the camera applying flat gain and risk burning highlights you can't remove. I've looked at some of my AUTO ISO shots using shoe flash and I could have done better choosing another aperture and fixing the ISO. I tested the D750 AUTO ISO algorithm for daylight shots in A mode: For a bright daylight scene ISO starts at your set minimum say 100, then shutter steps slower until it reaches your set low limit as the scene gets darker. When the your automatic low shutter speed limit is reached, ISO then starts increasing up to the maximum you allowed. If the scene is even darker, shutter starts getting slower below your threshold setting, when you might get shake or blurred movement. Rather like aircraft crash warning 'Brace' your camera shouts 'Tripod'!  I'm happy it works that way for daylight, but it doesn't work like that using my shoe flash.In your case I guess you do what all good manual photographers do - look at the metered settings, make judgement decisions for Aperture, Shutter and ISO, then check the shot afterwards in preview for exposure and focus?</blockquote>

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