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Nikon DSLR Cameras
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What do you suppose this means?
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<blockquote data-quote="grandpaw" data-source="post: 66667" data-attributes="member: 8635"><p>I will give you my thoughts on this. First of all the only time I turn my VR off is when it is on a tripod and the camera is stable and not moving. A mono pod is steadier than being handheld but it is still not solid and is subject to movement. As far as using the remote goes it will be useless unless your camera IS ON A TRIPOD. If the camera is subject to movement using a remote will not do you any good. If you use good shooting technique with the VR turned on and a proper shutter speed you should not have any movement problems. With the cameras you own if your hands are not steady or your shooting technique is not good you should be able to bump the ISO up enough to get the shutter speed that you will need. The first thing I would consider doing is taking advantage of the VR that you paid extra money for. I have found that the VR is MUCH MORE EFFECTIVE if you actually have it turned on and use it. Second, think about your shooting technique and how you are holding the camera. Next use the proper shutter speed for the focal length you are shooting. As a rule of thumb your shutter speed should be one to one and one half times the focal length you are shooting. Example, 300mm should have a shutter speed somewhere between 1/300 sec to 1/450sec if you are shooting handheld. The longer the focal length the higher the shutter speed you will need. In my humble opinion if mirror movement is affecting your shot, then you are shooting way too slow.</p><p></p><p>I do have steady hands but I have a photo taken with my Sigma 17-50 shot at night, handheld at one full second that is sharp. I also have a shot with my 70-200VR using a 2x teleconverter shot at 1/8 second handheld that is sharp. I normally would not shoot at these speeds but I was doing it just to prove to a friend of mine that it is possible. Both of these were handheld single shots only using stabilization on each of the lenses and shot with normal settings on the camera. I normally would not shoot this slow but was doing it to make a point that if you hold the camera properly and take advantage of the stabilization they offer you can accomplish a lot. If mirror slap was that big of a factor it should have really messed up these two shots and it didn't.</p><p></p><p>Again the is my opinion taken from actual years of shooting. Others will probably give you other opinions so consider them all and see what works best for you. The above opinions were derived from years of hands on experience. I know this was a little long but I just wanted to give you my thoughts on the subject. Jeff</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="grandpaw, post: 66667, member: 8635"] I will give you my thoughts on this. First of all the only time I turn my VR off is when it is on a tripod and the camera is stable and not moving. A mono pod is steadier than being handheld but it is still not solid and is subject to movement. As far as using the remote goes it will be useless unless your camera IS ON A TRIPOD. If the camera is subject to movement using a remote will not do you any good. If you use good shooting technique with the VR turned on and a proper shutter speed you should not have any movement problems. With the cameras you own if your hands are not steady or your shooting technique is not good you should be able to bump the ISO up enough to get the shutter speed that you will need. The first thing I would consider doing is taking advantage of the VR that you paid extra money for. I have found that the VR is MUCH MORE EFFECTIVE if you actually have it turned on and use it. Second, think about your shooting technique and how you are holding the camera. Next use the proper shutter speed for the focal length you are shooting. As a rule of thumb your shutter speed should be one to one and one half times the focal length you are shooting. Example, 300mm should have a shutter speed somewhere between 1/300 sec to 1/450sec if you are shooting handheld. The longer the focal length the higher the shutter speed you will need. In my humble opinion if mirror movement is affecting your shot, then you are shooting way too slow. I do have steady hands but I have a photo taken with my Sigma 17-50 shot at night, handheld at one full second that is sharp. I also have a shot with my 70-200VR using a 2x teleconverter shot at 1/8 second handheld that is sharp. I normally would not shoot at these speeds but I was doing it just to prove to a friend of mine that it is possible. Both of these were handheld single shots only using stabilization on each of the lenses and shot with normal settings on the camera. I normally would not shoot this slow but was doing it to make a point that if you hold the camera properly and take advantage of the stabilization they offer you can accomplish a lot. If mirror slap was that big of a factor it should have really messed up these two shots and it didn't. Again the is my opinion taken from actual years of shooting. Others will probably give you other opinions so consider them all and see what works best for you. The above opinions were derived from years of hands on experience. I know this was a little long but I just wanted to give you my thoughts on the subject. Jeff [/QUOTE]
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