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Flashes
Vivitar 283 on a D3100?
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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 246591" data-attributes="member: 12496"><p>I just bought a nifty new car, and someone gave me an old Model T tire. Can I use it?</p><p></p><p>I wouldn't, times have changed. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> At best, it will be manual flash only. Which some people like, but TTL automation is available today. Your new camera is capable of very much, which would surely be fun to use, and take advantage of.</p><p></p><p>At least measure the sync voltage on it first. Nikon DSLR are rated to 250 volts, but some old 283 are reported higher than that. Modern flashes are more like 6 volts. There were many flashes labeled as Vivitar 283. More recent ones were safe (but still old technology). The only way to know is to measure it first.</p><p></p><p>With the flash not connected to anything, head aimed away from your eyes, but NOT face down on anything the flash heat can scorch... The act of measuring it can cause it to flash, which is fine, and is what flashes do, but be prepared for it. Some friend or family probably has a volt meter.</p><p></p><p>Turn the flash on, and measure the DC voltage on the foot center pin, to the metal foot, or if plastic, to the side electrical contacts to metal shoe.</p><p></p><p>Under 10 volts is great. Under 50 volts wont hurt the Nikon. We don't even care about a precise value, but anything even approaching a couple hundred volts, trash it. Some were.</p><p></p><p>See maybe <a href="http://www.scantips.com/lights/flashbasics1h.html" target="_blank">Beginners Guide to Select a Hot Shoe Flash - and Compare Power Rating of Flashes with Guide Numbers</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 246591, member: 12496"] I just bought a nifty new car, and someone gave me an old Model T tire. Can I use it? I wouldn't, times have changed. :) At best, it will be manual flash only. Which some people like, but TTL automation is available today. Your new camera is capable of very much, which would surely be fun to use, and take advantage of. At least measure the sync voltage on it first. Nikon DSLR are rated to 250 volts, but some old 283 are reported higher than that. Modern flashes are more like 6 volts. There were many flashes labeled as Vivitar 283. More recent ones were safe (but still old technology). The only way to know is to measure it first. With the flash not connected to anything, head aimed away from your eyes, but NOT face down on anything the flash heat can scorch... The act of measuring it can cause it to flash, which is fine, and is what flashes do, but be prepared for it. Some friend or family probably has a volt meter. Turn the flash on, and measure the DC voltage on the foot center pin, to the metal foot, or if plastic, to the side electrical contacts to metal shoe. Under 10 volts is great. Under 50 volts wont hurt the Nikon. We don't even care about a precise value, but anything even approaching a couple hundred volts, trash it. Some were. See maybe [URL="http://www.scantips.com/lights/flashbasics1h.html"]Beginners Guide to Select a Hot Shoe Flash - and Compare Power Rating of Flashes with Guide Numbers[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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Vivitar 283 on a D3100?
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