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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D3200
Using multiple focal points
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<blockquote data-quote="aroy" data-source="post: 365529" data-attributes="member: 16090"><p>First of all get your eyes checked. Mine are pretty bad. I have 3 spectacles - very near, monitor and distance - as my eyes deteriorated, I kept the old ones. I can read perfectly without specs. That said, I use the ones I use to work on computer monitor for photography. That gives me reasonable focus on the scenery.</p><p></p><p>For manual Focus, first of all you must be able to see the text in View Finder perfectly. In case the diopter adjustment is deficient, get an add on corrective eyepiece.</p><p><a href="http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Nikon-Products/Product/Eyepieces/DK-20C-0.5-Correction-Eyepiece.html" target="_blank">DK-20C +0.5 Correction Eyepiece from Nikon</a></p><p>These are available in various values. For critical focus I use the "Range Finder", which is normally spot on.</p><p></p><p>Now for practical shooting. At medium to far distances my AF lenses work fine. At close distances, the AF is pretty vague. I attribute it to "distractions" in the focus rectangle. Some times it focuses ahead some times behind and 50% spot on. What I do is</p><p>. Try to set the AF point where there is no ambiguity - middle of the flower, rather than at the edge, where the AF may focus at the edge or behind it.</p><p>. When shots are critical and I want to use wide aperture, say F1.8 or F2, I take one shot at that aperture and another one at F5 to F8 (depends). In case I missed the focus on the eye in a portrait, I at least have a sharp image.</p><p></p><p>Secondly I have found that with AF-C, the camera fires whether the focus is acquired or not. AF-S is more reliable - it will not fire if focus is not achieved.</p><p></p><p>For large groups, I always use F8 to F11 - same for close ups of flowers. That ensures that there is enough DOF for a decently sharp image.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="aroy, post: 365529, member: 16090"] First of all get your eyes checked. Mine are pretty bad. I have 3 spectacles - very near, monitor and distance - as my eyes deteriorated, I kept the old ones. I can read perfectly without specs. That said, I use the ones I use to work on computer monitor for photography. That gives me reasonable focus on the scenery. For manual Focus, first of all you must be able to see the text in View Finder perfectly. In case the diopter adjustment is deficient, get an add on corrective eyepiece. [url=http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Nikon-Products/Product/Eyepieces/DK-20C-0.5-Correction-Eyepiece.html]DK-20C +0.5 Correction Eyepiece from Nikon[/url] These are available in various values. For critical focus I use the "Range Finder", which is normally spot on. Now for practical shooting. At medium to far distances my AF lenses work fine. At close distances, the AF is pretty vague. I attribute it to "distractions" in the focus rectangle. Some times it focuses ahead some times behind and 50% spot on. What I do is . Try to set the AF point where there is no ambiguity - middle of the flower, rather than at the edge, where the AF may focus at the edge or behind it. . When shots are critical and I want to use wide aperture, say F1.8 or F2, I take one shot at that aperture and another one at F5 to F8 (depends). In case I missed the focus on the eye in a portrait, I at least have a sharp image. Secondly I have found that with AF-C, the camera fires whether the focus is acquired or not. AF-S is more reliable - it will not fire if focus is not achieved. For large groups, I always use F8 to F11 - same for close ups of flowers. That ensures that there is enough DOF for a decently sharp image. [/QUOTE]
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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D3200
Using multiple focal points
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