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<blockquote data-quote="aroy" data-source="post: 646005" data-attributes="member: 16090">Actually shooting in RAW with spot meter solves most of the problems. I regularly shoot in either harsh sunlight or indoors. In both the situations there is a wealth of information available in the shadows which are easily recovered if you shoot RAW - 12 bits of levels verses 8 bits in jpeg, that 4 bits extra gives you additional 16 levels of colour.Today if you have adequate storage, both in camera - 32GB card or computer, there is no reason to shoot in RAW. The least processing to get jpeg fast is to batch export the RAW images to jpeg using Nikon View NX-i. I use Nikon Capture NX-D which gives me more than adequate processing flexibility.I normally use Spot Metering as I have found that Matrix Metering has the problem of evening out the exposure and in case of majority background is bright and the main subject a bit dark. The camera under exposes, thus giving you dark green/red instead of normal colour. Any way even that can be rectified easily in post processing RAW images.The camera has an exposure compensation button - &quot;+-&quot; at the top near the shutter button. You just press it and rotate the thumb wheel to change the exposure compensation.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="aroy, post: 646005, member: 16090"] Actually shooting in RAW with spot meter solves most of the problems. I regularly shoot in either harsh sunlight or indoors. In both the situations there is a wealth of information available in the shadows which are easily recovered if you shoot RAW - 12 bits of levels verses 8 bits in jpeg, that 4 bits extra gives you additional 16 levels of colour. Today if you have adequate storage, both in camera - 32GB card or computer, there is no reason to shoot in RAW. The least processing to get jpeg fast is to batch export the RAW images to jpeg using Nikon View NX-i. I use Nikon Capture NX-D which gives me more than adequate processing flexibility. I normally use Spot Metering as I have found that Matrix Metering has the problem of evening out the exposure and in case of majority background is bright and the main subject a bit dark. The camera under exposes, thus giving you dark green/red instead of normal colour. Any way even that can be rectified easily in post processing RAW images. The camera has an exposure compensation button - "+-" at the top near the shutter button. You just press it and rotate the thumb wheel to change the exposure compensation. [/QUOTE]

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