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<blockquote data-quote="Dave_W" data-source="post: 153030" data-attributes="member: 9521">The things I've learned that are important for moon shots are to set your camera on spot meter instead of matrix metering, spot metering will give you a very good estimate on shutter speed. Another thing is to underexpose the shots a little. Each camera and lens combo are a little different to try a couple different underexposures until you figure out which works best. And finally, I've found that setting your f-stop to something just barely above wide open, maybe a half of a stop gives the best detail. I used to shoot it at the lenses widest possible aperture but the sweet spot for a lenses is 1 to 2.5 stops smaller than maximum. So if max aperture is 2.8, use 3.2 or if it's 5.6 (like my 70-300mm), use 6.2. Don't go above f-11 because you'll begin to introduce diffraction and will lose sharpness compared to the sweet spot apertures.&nbsp;Good luck!</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Dave_W, post: 153030, member: 9521"] The things I've learned that are important for moon shots are to set your camera on spot meter instead of matrix metering, spot metering will give you a very good estimate on shutter speed. Another thing is to underexpose the shots a little. Each camera and lens combo are a little different to try a couple different underexposures until you figure out which works best. And finally, I've found that setting your f-stop to something just barely above wide open, maybe a half of a stop gives the best detail. I used to shoot it at the lenses widest possible aperture but the sweet spot for a lenses is 1 to 2.5 stops smaller than maximum. So if max aperture is 2.8, use 3.2 or if it's 5.6 (like my 70-300mm), use 6.2. Don't go above f-11 because you'll begin to introduce diffraction and will lose sharpness compared to the sweet spot apertures. Good luck! [/QUOTE]

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