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<blockquote data-quote="aroy" data-source="post: 363235" data-attributes="member: 16090">Are you shooting RAW or jpeg. If jpeg, shift immediately to RAW. That will give you at least 2EV and may be 3EV advantage while boosting shadows.I use Aperture Priority. In the scenario you have shown I would set up camera -1. Aperture Priority2. ISO 800 fixed (not auto). I have assigned ISO to the Fn button.3. Apertures between 1.8 and 4 if using 35mm F1.8 DXFor static shots, where there is very little movement, you can shoot down to 1/60 sec. For fast action, use at least 1/250. Now you can juggle between the aperture and ISO, but I do not thing going beyond ISO 1600 will help, so increase the aperture from F4 to F1.8 and then increase the ISO. If you find the lights bright enough, then you can reduce ISO to 400.If you are not familiar with post processing of RAW images, then download the Nikon NX-D software from Nikon site and start using it.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="aroy, post: 363235, member: 16090"] Are you shooting RAW or jpeg. If jpeg, shift immediately to RAW. That will give you at least 2EV and may be 3EV advantage while boosting shadows. I use Aperture Priority. In the scenario you have shown I would set up camera - 1. Aperture Priority 2. ISO 800 fixed (not auto). I have assigned ISO to the Fn button. 3. Apertures between 1.8 and 4 if using 35mm F1.8 DX For static shots, where there is very little movement, you can shoot down to 1/60 sec. For fast action, use at least 1/250. Now you can juggle between the aperture and ISO, but I do not thing going beyond ISO 1600 will help, so increase the aperture from F4 to F1.8 and then increase the ISO. If you find the lights bright enough, then you can reduce ISO to 400. If you are not familiar with post processing of RAW images, then download the Nikon NX-D software from Nikon site and start using it. [/QUOTE]

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