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General Photography
Low Light & Night
Telescope to attach Z7 to
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<blockquote data-quote="BF Hammer" data-source="post: 845201" data-attributes="member: 48483"><p>Minimum equipment for moon is tripod, telephoto lens of 300mm for DX body, but more is better. Much better to photograph the moon at the quarter phase or as a crescent, since the light won't blow out the detail as much, and you get shadow along the terminator for additional detail.</p><p></p><p>A single exposure image is very doable. But set the self timer on the Zfc to shoot 30-60 exposures a little under-exposed, then use astrophotography stacking software to align and combine the exposure data for far more detail. And it blends out ISO noise.</p><p></p><p>The moon will move across the individual frames, but the stacking software is supposed to deal with that for you. For dimmer deep-sky objects such as galaxies and nebulae, you almost need to invest in powered tracking equatorial mount. When the polar alignment is correct, you can take 60 second or sometimes longer exposures. Of course this also would lead to stacking 100+ exposures to get those pretty images of space clouds. This works even better when you tether a laptop to the camera and control the exposure settings and sequence remotely.</p><p></p><p>This is why I say it can just make more sense to buy a smart telescope today. Less money, less work. But the moon and Milky Way landscapes are fairly easily done without the extra gear, even if stacking software would become involved.</p><p></p><p><a href="https://siril.org/" target="_blank">Siril</a> is the free astro software of choice right now.</p><p></p><p>PS: It understand polar aligning to the Southern Cross gets fairly tricky compared to us in the north having Polaris to align to.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BF Hammer, post: 845201, member: 48483"] Minimum equipment for moon is tripod, telephoto lens of 300mm for DX body, but more is better. Much better to photograph the moon at the quarter phase or as a crescent, since the light won't blow out the detail as much, and you get shadow along the terminator for additional detail. A single exposure image is very doable. But set the self timer on the Zfc to shoot 30-60 exposures a little under-exposed, then use astrophotography stacking software to align and combine the exposure data for far more detail. And it blends out ISO noise. The moon will move across the individual frames, but the stacking software is supposed to deal with that for you. For dimmer deep-sky objects such as galaxies and nebulae, you almost need to invest in powered tracking equatorial mount. When the polar alignment is correct, you can take 60 second or sometimes longer exposures. Of course this also would lead to stacking 100+ exposures to get those pretty images of space clouds. This works even better when you tether a laptop to the camera and control the exposure settings and sequence remotely. This is why I say it can just make more sense to buy a smart telescope today. Less money, less work. But the moon and Milky Way landscapes are fairly easily done without the extra gear, even if stacking software would become involved. [URL='https://siril.org/']Siril[/URL] is the free astro software of choice right now. PS: It understand polar aligning to the Southern Cross gets fairly tricky compared to us in the north having Polaris to align to. [/QUOTE]
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Low Light & Night
Telescope to attach Z7 to
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