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General Photography
Low Light & Night
Telescope to attach Z7 to
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<blockquote data-quote="BF Hammer" data-source="post: 830877" data-attributes="member: 48483"><p>Lisa, I wish there could be a simple answer for such a simple question. I do not own a telescope, but I have done some of the research. I simply use my Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8 and Sigma 150-600mm C to do my DSO work (Deep Space Object).</p><p></p><p>In a generic explanation, you need a T-adapter for Z-mount. T-adapter meaning telescope, and it would install in place of an eyepiece. A telescope that can be fitted with different magnification eyepieces is what you would look for there.</p><p></p><p>As for a starter telescope, I keep seeing recommendations for a refractor style in the range of 450-600mm size. A refractor is the kind with glass lenses in a line that you look through from the back end, very much like your camera lenses. On the cheaper end are doublets with 2 elements, but most recommend trying to get at least a triplet telescope. Often in front of the T-adapter there might be a field-flattener to buy which make the distorted stars in the corners appear more round.</p><p></p><p>And none of this addresses what may be the most important part: Tripod and mount. You need a sturdy enough base to hold everything without transmitting vibration to the camera, and a motorized tracking mount that can bear the weight of everything. That tracking mount is not really an option either with astrophotography. The more you zoom in, the shorter the.j exposure time must be to avoid motion blurs. You will certainly need to attempt 45 second to 90 second exposures on the low end and still have to do exposure stacking to gain and hour or more of total exposure. The mount has to track accurately to give you that.</p><p></p><p>So as I said, I use camera lenses, not a telescope. But I do have a motorized telescope mount with Go-To control. That means once I carefully align it to a pole (using Polaris in the north in my case) I can use a phone app to select a target and aim the camera. My mount has about 5Kg load and I also use counterweights to steady it some more. I have had some nights where I managed to set-up and align perfectly and it tracked right to any target I requested, and I have had more where I had things a little off. When it is right, photos can be beautiful.</p><p></p><p>I actually took these photos with the Sigma 150-600mm. They are exposure stacked, but that is pretty standard for DSO photos.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://imgur.com/G99YGER.jpeg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="https://imgur.com/9hiJYvA.jpeg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BF Hammer, post: 830877, member: 48483"] Lisa, I wish there could be a simple answer for such a simple question. I do not own a telescope, but I have done some of the research. I simply use my Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8 and Sigma 150-600mm C to do my DSO work (Deep Space Object). In a generic explanation, you need a T-adapter for Z-mount. T-adapter meaning telescope, and it would install in place of an eyepiece. A telescope that can be fitted with different magnification eyepieces is what you would look for there. As for a starter telescope, I keep seeing recommendations for a refractor style in the range of 450-600mm size. A refractor is the kind with glass lenses in a line that you look through from the back end, very much like your camera lenses. On the cheaper end are doublets with 2 elements, but most recommend trying to get at least a triplet telescope. Often in front of the T-adapter there might be a field-flattener to buy which make the distorted stars in the corners appear more round. And none of this addresses what may be the most important part: Tripod and mount. You need a sturdy enough base to hold everything without transmitting vibration to the camera, and a motorized tracking mount that can bear the weight of everything. That tracking mount is not really an option either with astrophotography. The more you zoom in, the shorter the.j exposure time must be to avoid motion blurs. You will certainly need to attempt 45 second to 90 second exposures on the low end and still have to do exposure stacking to gain and hour or more of total exposure. The mount has to track accurately to give you that. So as I said, I use camera lenses, not a telescope. But I do have a motorized telescope mount with Go-To control. That means once I carefully align it to a pole (using Polaris in the north in my case) I can use a phone app to select a target and aim the camera. My mount has about 5Kg load and I also use counterweights to steady it some more. I have had some nights where I managed to set-up and align perfectly and it tracked right to any target I requested, and I have had more where I had things a little off. When it is right, photos can be beautiful. I actually took these photos with the Sigma 150-600mm. They are exposure stacked, but that is pretty standard for DSO photos. [IMG]https://imgur.com/G99YGER.jpeg[/IMG] [IMG]https://imgur.com/9hiJYvA.jpeg[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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Telescope to attach Z7 to
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