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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 224025" data-attributes="member: 12496">For portraits, to improve perspective, use the lens focal length that lets&nbsp; you stand back 6 or 8 feet from them.&nbsp; Zoom in to get the view that you want.Classically, this is about 70mm DX or 105 mm FX for a head and shoulders view (this forces you to stand back).&nbsp; But for a waist up or full length or group shot, a wider lens will be necessary (or else you have to move far back).&nbsp; Standing back a bit is the thing though, for perspective, to not make noses look larger than they are.The only importance of a &quot;normal&quot; lens - 30 or 35mm for DX (or 50 mm for FX) - is that this lens more or less duplicates the normal view that the human eye thinks it saw there, width wise.&nbsp; Records the scene as you remember seeing it.&nbsp; But you may prefer a wider or more narrow view to show what you want to show.Portraits will have more depth of field (sharper) at f/5.6 or f/8 than at f/1.8.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 224025, member: 12496"] For portraits, to improve perspective, use the lens focal length that lets you stand back 6 or 8 feet from them. Zoom in to get the view that you want. Classically, this is about 70mm DX or 105 mm FX for a head and shoulders view (this forces you to stand back). But for a waist up or full length or group shot, a wider lens will be necessary (or else you have to move far back). Standing back a bit is the thing though, for perspective, to not make noses look larger than they are. The only importance of a "normal" lens - 30 or 35mm for DX (or 50 mm for FX) - is that this lens more or less duplicates the normal view that the human eye thinks it saw there, width wise. Records the scene as you remember seeing it. But you may prefer a wider or more narrow view to show what you want to show. Portraits will have more depth of field (sharper) at f/5.6 or f/8 than at f/1.8. [/QUOTE]

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