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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D5100
Spot Metering Technique
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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 207314" data-attributes="member: 12496"><p>Well, I cannot think of any reason to ever turn C1 off. If you don't want to lock and move, then don't, just wait until you get there. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>Silhouetting sounds like a good case for it, but I typically use it for the opposite... like when there is a window or other bright background behind the subject, which makes the foreground subject seriously underexposed. I just aim the camera down at their knees or feet (to exclude the bright window background), half press on that exposure (which is at the same same distance and very nearly same light as up above), and then reframe and shoot. Works great. That's an old trick from decades ago, before cameras even had menus. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 207314, member: 12496"] Well, I cannot think of any reason to ever turn C1 off. If you don't want to lock and move, then don't, just wait until you get there. :) Silhouetting sounds like a good case for it, but I typically use it for the opposite... like when there is a window or other bright background behind the subject, which makes the foreground subject seriously underexposed. I just aim the camera down at their knees or feet (to exclude the bright window background), half press on that exposure (which is at the same same distance and very nearly same light as up above), and then reframe and shoot. Works great. That's an old trick from decades ago, before cameras even had menus. :) [/QUOTE]
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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D5100
Spot Metering Technique
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