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Some Questions on using the SB-700
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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 168900" data-attributes="member: 12496"><p>Yes, experience. You start with about the same power level that worked last time in a similar situation. After a very short time, this will be much closer and easier than you might imagine now. Then, you tweak it in by eye, or guided by histogram (but eye is the final criteria). Or in the studio with multiple lights, you probably use a handlheld flash meter.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Frankly yes. SB-700 does TTL BL, which is fill flash. It tries to be less level than ambient levels. Which is about right for outdoor shorts (if there is a normally exposed ambient, flash has to be held back so the sum of two correct exposures does not overexpose a stop).</p><p></p><p>Indoors, experiment with making +1 EV Flash Compensation your starting base. You still have to watch it, and adjust it, by applying whatever FC seems correct. Some other flash models can override with real TTL Mode (instead of TTL BL), which needs less of that. </p><p></p><p>Just use whatever level of Flash Compensation is needed. This too becomes very easy, you just know ahead of time.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>I don't understand the question. Ready light is on steady red when it becomes ready. Blinking three times immediately after a shot is a warning that the flash fired at full power, often meaning it did not have as much power capacity as you were requesting. SB-700 is slightly different here, not sure I can answer, this blinking is something new to me..</p><p></p><p>See pages C-5 (hotshoe), D-27 and D-28 (remote), and D-29 about "how much underexposed" (pages of English version anyway).</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Remote IS THE MODE, period (speaking of Advanced Wireless, i.e., the Commander). In Remote mode, you choose flash parameters (like TTL or compensation) in the Commander menu at camera.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Manual, you set everything (power), and the result is up to you and your skills. If result is not good, make some other manual flash settings (power level or aperture or ISO or distance).</p><p></p><p>GN Mode, you set distance, and it does all else (power), automatically, by using GN computation. It knows ISO, aperture, etc.</p><p></p><p>TTL, you set camera aperture and ISO, and it does all else (power), automatically. You can control or guide this TTL automation with Flash Compensation.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>It has two very different concepts of "remote". </p><p></p><p>Remote is truly remote (AWL with Commander). There are no more settings on the flash. It is triggered by the Commander on camera, and the settings are there, Commander menu.</p><p></p><p>or... SU-4 is called remote, but it is a simple optical slave, manual flash, triggered by any other manual flash (NOT the commander). You probably want its Manual mode, where you set its power manually. Auto (follows trigger) is really a film-type TTL.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Standby:</p><p></p><p>On the hot shoe, you press the shutter button half way to wake it up.</p><p>But there cannot be any standby in either remote mode, as there is no communication to reactivate it. </p><p></p><p>If the remote mode says Standby, it likely means it shut down because the batteries are dead.</p><p>There is no Standby, and no way to wake it, remotely. </p><p>Leaving it in Remote all night probably is sufficient to drain the batteries.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 168900, member: 12496"] Yes, experience. You start with about the same power level that worked last time in a similar situation. After a very short time, this will be much closer and easier than you might imagine now. Then, you tweak it in by eye, or guided by histogram (but eye is the final criteria). Or in the studio with multiple lights, you probably use a handlheld flash meter. Frankly yes. SB-700 does TTL BL, which is fill flash. It tries to be less level than ambient levels. Which is about right for outdoor shorts (if there is a normally exposed ambient, flash has to be held back so the sum of two correct exposures does not overexpose a stop). Indoors, experiment with making +1 EV Flash Compensation your starting base. You still have to watch it, and adjust it, by applying whatever FC seems correct. Some other flash models can override with real TTL Mode (instead of TTL BL), which needs less of that. Just use whatever level of Flash Compensation is needed. This too becomes very easy, you just know ahead of time. I don't understand the question. Ready light is on steady red when it becomes ready. Blinking three times immediately after a shot is a warning that the flash fired at full power, often meaning it did not have as much power capacity as you were requesting. SB-700 is slightly different here, not sure I can answer, this blinking is something new to me.. See pages C-5 (hotshoe), D-27 and D-28 (remote), and D-29 about "how much underexposed" (pages of English version anyway). Remote IS THE MODE, period (speaking of Advanced Wireless, i.e., the Commander). In Remote mode, you choose flash parameters (like TTL or compensation) in the Commander menu at camera. Manual, you set everything (power), and the result is up to you and your skills. If result is not good, make some other manual flash settings (power level or aperture or ISO or distance). GN Mode, you set distance, and it does all else (power), automatically, by using GN computation. It knows ISO, aperture, etc. TTL, you set camera aperture and ISO, and it does all else (power), automatically. You can control or guide this TTL automation with Flash Compensation. It has two very different concepts of "remote". Remote is truly remote (AWL with Commander). There are no more settings on the flash. It is triggered by the Commander on camera, and the settings are there, Commander menu. or... SU-4 is called remote, but it is a simple optical slave, manual flash, triggered by any other manual flash (NOT the commander). You probably want its Manual mode, where you set its power manually. Auto (follows trigger) is really a film-type TTL. Standby: On the hot shoe, you press the shutter button half way to wake it up. But there cannot be any standby in either remote mode, as there is no communication to reactivate it. If the remote mode says Standby, it likely means it shut down because the batteries are dead. There is no Standby, and no way to wake it, remotely. Leaving it in Remote all night probably is sufficient to drain the batteries. [/QUOTE]
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Some Questions on using the SB-700
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