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Message: <blockquote data-quote="SpectrumK" data-source="post: 682352" data-attributes="member: 45685">EDIT: Second-posting this in shorter form because my previous long answer didn't seem to pass the filters for some reason.Thanks Brent! Good to be here.Thanks a lot Brad, some really thoughtful suggestions there!I have been considering the GH5 with a 60mm Olympus for the past few weeks as well, but the problem I have with is is minimal focus distance. I currently work at around 30cm to get the 1:1 with the 100mm macro lens that I used and even that is kind of too close. The subjects need tons of light and the camera does tend to get in the way of that in both studio and handheld daylight scenarios (in daylight they usually look the best with the sun at my back, hence the shadow problems). Light is of paramount importance so the camera always plays second fiddle to that - and this is where a greater working distance comes in useful.Wouldn't the 60mm lens (effectively 120mm on a 4/3) have an even lesser working distance than what I use currently?Vis-a-vis 1:1, I can't post links due to the filter for new accounts, but what I meant by bigger subject was simply this: If you enter a 105mm lens with a say, D7000 series body into Nikon's lens simulator and screenshot the result, then enter a 200mm lens with a D800 body and do the same, the FF/200mm image seems to have that lighthouse portion fill up equally much (or more) of the frame as the APS-C/105mm. In other words, you get the same subject size in the frame but with the benefit of higher resolution and a newer sensor, allowing you to crop more freely. Am I wrong in this assumption?Also, thanks a lot for the Raynox idea! One small concern is that it would probably be overkill for me at the 2.5x magnification with a 180mm Sigma. A 105mm Nikon + the Raynox would most likely be closer to what I need.Lastly, thank you for the link! It's the best macro insect photography I've ever seen, anywhere. I'll probably go and ask him about how to solve the working distance problem with the 4/3 (for me around 40-50cm would be ideal). His subjects are a bit too large in the frame for my needs, but he does seem to have full insects in the frame too so obviously there's a solution for it.Hi Fred, I understand focus stacking itself, it's not an issue - I've been using Helicon to do it all this time. I know that the D850's taking of focus stacks is a gimmick compared to a dedicated program, but it's a useful thing to have and for sure a lot better than me moving the lens around and taking it by hand. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile    :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> It's not a necessity, of course, but it's a pretty nice feature. An external program is still needed to add them all up in the end anyway.</blockquote>

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