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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D850
Some questions about macro with the D850
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<blockquote data-quote="SpectrumK" data-source="post: 682315" data-attributes="member: 45685"><p>Thank you for the welcome Brent! Good to be here.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Brad, thanks a lot for all the suggestions, it's really thoughtful. I've been toying with the idea of the 4/3 GH5 and the Olympus 60mm for a few days now as the GH5 seems like a really amazing camera, but I have a potential problem with subject distance.</p><p></p><p>My current work is at the minimum focal distance of 30cm for the 100mm on the 1.5 crop, to get the subject to appear as large in the frame as possible (1:1). </p><p>This is already sort of too close for comfort and it gets in the way of the studio lights which again are aimed at very particular angles and so in many ways represent the least changeable aspect of my setup. I have the same issue with daylight - the camera often casts a shadow on the objects because 99% of the time they look best lit with the sun behind my back. </p><p>The nature of my work requires tons of light very close up, with the camera playing second fiddle to that and being crammed into wherever it can get between all the light. Being further away for the same sort of subject size in the frame would be somewhat helpful, but being a bit further away for even more subject size in the frame would be perfect. It doesn't need to make a 5mm object fill the entire frame, but if I can get a 5-10mm object fill about 25%-30% of the frame on a FF, that'd be nice.</p><p></p><p>A few questions:</p><p>- am I correct in assuming that a 60mm on a 4/3 behaves like a 120mm on a 1.5 crop in regards to how large the objects would appear in a frame?</p><p>- a bit worrying - isn't the minimal working distance (and at the same time the greatest magnification) for the 60mm lens mounted on a 4/3 camera about 20cm? If that is the case, then despite the greater subject area, I simply can't physically get that close and keep the objects lit well enough.</p><p></p><p>The link you posted is absolutely jaw-dropping, I don't think I've seen macro insect photos that nice anywhere, ever. It's even a bit too close for me, as I wouldn't be able to get a 5-10mm subject into the frame and have some leftover framing but regardless, it's clearly amazing and I would have some use for it for sure.</p><p></p><p>To answer your question - the photos would mainly be viewed on computer and mobile screens. Sadly resized to optimal mobile media resolutions in some cases, but full(er) size in others.</p><p></p><p>If being at approximately 40-50cm distances from the subject with a 4/3 isn't an option (and I'm not sure about that), do you think a FF with an 180mm macro and a Raynox would provide a good balance of being far away while getting relatively large subjects in the frame? Also - would the Raynox impact the autofocusing capabilities of an 850 (or similar FF with a good autofocus)?</p><p></p><p>It's a lot of questions - I'd be really grateful for clarification if at all possible. Thank you again for the suggestions, it's really food for thought.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SpectrumK, post: 682315, member: 45685"] Thank you for the welcome Brent! Good to be here. Brad, thanks a lot for all the suggestions, it's really thoughtful. I've been toying with the idea of the 4/3 GH5 and the Olympus 60mm for a few days now as the GH5 seems like a really amazing camera, but I have a potential problem with subject distance. My current work is at the minimum focal distance of 30cm for the 100mm on the 1.5 crop, to get the subject to appear as large in the frame as possible (1:1). This is already sort of too close for comfort and it gets in the way of the studio lights which again are aimed at very particular angles and so in many ways represent the least changeable aspect of my setup. I have the same issue with daylight - the camera often casts a shadow on the objects because 99% of the time they look best lit with the sun behind my back. The nature of my work requires tons of light very close up, with the camera playing second fiddle to that and being crammed into wherever it can get between all the light. Being further away for the same sort of subject size in the frame would be somewhat helpful, but being a bit further away for even more subject size in the frame would be perfect. It doesn't need to make a 5mm object fill the entire frame, but if I can get a 5-10mm object fill about 25%-30% of the frame on a FF, that'd be nice. A few questions: - am I correct in assuming that a 60mm on a 4/3 behaves like a 120mm on a 1.5 crop in regards to how large the objects would appear in a frame? - a bit worrying - isn't the minimal working distance (and at the same time the greatest magnification) for the 60mm lens mounted on a 4/3 camera about 20cm? If that is the case, then despite the greater subject area, I simply can't physically get that close and keep the objects lit well enough. The link you posted is absolutely jaw-dropping, I don't think I've seen macro insect photos that nice anywhere, ever. It's even a bit too close for me, as I wouldn't be able to get a 5-10mm subject into the frame and have some leftover framing but regardless, it's clearly amazing and I would have some use for it for sure. To answer your question - the photos would mainly be viewed on computer and mobile screens. Sadly resized to optimal mobile media resolutions in some cases, but full(er) size in others. If being at approximately 40-50cm distances from the subject with a 4/3 isn't an option (and I'm not sure about that), do you think a FF with an 180mm macro and a Raynox would provide a good balance of being far away while getting relatively large subjects in the frame? Also - would the Raynox impact the autofocusing capabilities of an 850 (or similar FF with a good autofocus)? It's a lot of questions - I'd be really grateful for clarification if at all possible. Thank you again for the suggestions, it's really food for thought. [/QUOTE]
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Some questions about macro with the D850
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