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Message: <blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 229759" data-attributes="member: 12496">Right, the bar graph distances are about the range of the possible flash power levels. It shows the potential range that is possible for TTL to adjust to (at present ISO and aperture).I have no idea either.  My flashes are SB-800 without that pattern adjustment, and I've always gotten by.  <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile    :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" />     The patterns are just subtle zoom adjustments, a little wider or a little less wide zoom.   Without a good reason, I would just leave it on Standard.  <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0817439560/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=afewscannitips&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0817439560" target="_blank">Peterson wrote a book </a>centering on using GN flash mode.  It is a beginners book, and is greatly dumbed down (the way of today I think).  He says use GN mode (the calculator), but he never explains what GN is.  But its serious weakness is that he totally rules out and ignores TTL mode.  He says TTL metering can be variable,  and instead of mentioning flash compensation to fix it, he says forget it.  Then for bounce, he says just open two stops.  LOL.      But really, direct flash is not that bad.  Not soft like an umbrella, but not necessarily bad.    What is bad is direct flash from the camera position. Miserably flat, uninteresting.   An umbrella at the camera would be poor too.   Get it off off camera, and it's vastly better (adds gradient shadow toning)  For example, our Sun is direct too, but it is off camera. Both cases do need a little fill to make the shadows not so harsh.Put the SB-700 as a bare direct light about 45 degrees high and wide of subject, and add fill from camera popup flash (at reduced fill level, about -1.3 EV down - or adjusted visually to lighten but not eliminate the 45 degree shadows) and it can be better than anything except umbrellas.  The popup will trigger the SB-700 in its SU-4 slave mode. Both flashes are manual mode of course.   Try it, then you know, and its not bad at all, can be quite good. The dome is still tiny, can't soften like an umbrella could, and won't change much in that regard.  The actual purpose of the dome is to provide direct forward spill for bounce, for fill, and most importantly, to create catchlights in the eyes (which makes a big difference).  Usually the dome is too much, obliterating the bounce shadows.   A small bounce card works better.  Use the pullout bounce card for this purpose with bounce (primarily for catchlights).  It is NOT too small.  If too much fill when close, you don't have to pull it all the way out.It is only actual Spot Metering mode (on the tiny rotating camera dial) that switches the SB-700 to TTL mode.   Single point focus does not cause TTL.  Ideally in dim ambient (where we need flash), TTL BL ought to mimic TTL, but sometimes it needs a little +EV compensation.  No big deal, just do what you see you need to do. We have to watch both modes.The Exif shows the flash mode, in the Maker section.  There are some ifs and buts about the Exif tools.The three immediate blinks is saying that the flash is at full power, and probably could not comply with your request for power.  You need wider aperture or higher ISO or closer subject distance.  The flash LCD then tells you how much more power was instead needed, see SB-700 manual page C-5.   If it just says 0 EV is needed, you're OK, it was just at maximum.  If it says more, then you were underexposed, relative to its metering.</blockquote>

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