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Photography Q&A
shooting a wedding- got the jitters- all pics blurry lately!!???
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<blockquote data-quote="BackdoorArts" data-source="post: 331529" data-attributes="member: 9240"><p>I'm going to make some recommendations that work for me. I don't shoot weddings, and won't, but when I shoot street photos I use these, and as I see it wedding photography is a lot like street photography with more pressure and nicer clothes (I know, it's a stretch, but just go with me here!!).</p><p></p><p><strong>Use AF-S and single point focus</strong>. Be aware of where your subject is and know how to recompose (grab the focus point on your subject and then recompose the shot with the button 1/2 way down to hold focus - or use the AF-L button on the back). AF-C is <em>not</em> what you should be using for people posing as it will, if set incorrectly, grab anything that it thinks is the subject. AF-C is for moving targets, so if you have kids running around you want to capture then change it and then immediately change it back.</p><p></p><p><strong>Put the camera in Aperture Priority and use Auto-ISO</strong>. You don't want to have to worry about too many things, but depth of field is critical with people and weddings, so you want the look you want and you want the camera to cooperate. Use Aperture Priority and concentrate on that number so you have the DOF you want. Set Auto-ISO to help you do that. With the D90 and D7000 you're <em>not</em> going to want to go about ISO 800 if you can help it, so set that as your MAX ISO, or 640 if you want to be really careful with noise, and your normal ISO at 100. Then adjust the AUTO shutter speed so that it is either at the midpoint of the Slow-to-Fast scale (this will match your focal length) or perhaps one click above to eliminate any potential movement from handheld shots. In fact, given that you do not have VR and seem to be nervous, make sure you set this to 4 or 5 to take that out of the equation. This means you'll be shooting at 1/60-1/100 on those 35mm shots, at the cost of ISO if the light is down.</p><p></p><p><strong>Make sure the lenses are focus tuned</strong>. You can't do it on the D90, but you can on the D7000. But check the D90 for front/back focus and avoid that body/lens combination if you find any issues, or shoot with a smaller aperture to grab the extra DOF.</p><p></p><p>From there I'd say only use the ultra-wide if you <em>really</em> have to for people. It will give group shots a weird look if taken too close at 11mm. If you're indoors, you're going to want to have a flash, and you're going to want it to be something other than the pop-up. If you've never done this then it's one more thing to pile on you, with no time to practice, but it makes a hell of a difference, even if all you're doing is bouncing a diffused light off the ceiling. The on-camera flash is going to give you very stark shadows and harsh light, which is going to look awful.</p><p></p><p>I'm sure others will chime in.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BackdoorArts, post: 331529, member: 9240"] I'm going to make some recommendations that work for me. I don't shoot weddings, and won't, but when I shoot street photos I use these, and as I see it wedding photography is a lot like street photography with more pressure and nicer clothes (I know, it's a stretch, but just go with me here!!). [B]Use AF-S and single point focus[/B]. Be aware of where your subject is and know how to recompose (grab the focus point on your subject and then recompose the shot with the button 1/2 way down to hold focus - or use the AF-L button on the back). AF-C is [I]not[/I] what you should be using for people posing as it will, if set incorrectly, grab anything that it thinks is the subject. AF-C is for moving targets, so if you have kids running around you want to capture then change it and then immediately change it back. [B]Put the camera in Aperture Priority and use Auto-ISO[/B]. You don't want to have to worry about too many things, but depth of field is critical with people and weddings, so you want the look you want and you want the camera to cooperate. Use Aperture Priority and concentrate on that number so you have the DOF you want. Set Auto-ISO to help you do that. With the D90 and D7000 you're [I]not[/I] going to want to go about ISO 800 if you can help it, so set that as your MAX ISO, or 640 if you want to be really careful with noise, and your normal ISO at 100. Then adjust the AUTO shutter speed so that it is either at the midpoint of the Slow-to-Fast scale (this will match your focal length) or perhaps one click above to eliminate any potential movement from handheld shots. In fact, given that you do not have VR and seem to be nervous, make sure you set this to 4 or 5 to take that out of the equation. This means you'll be shooting at 1/60-1/100 on those 35mm shots, at the cost of ISO if the light is down. [B]Make sure the lenses are focus tuned[/B]. You can't do it on the D90, but you can on the D7000. But check the D90 for front/back focus and avoid that body/lens combination if you find any issues, or shoot with a smaller aperture to grab the extra DOF. From there I'd say only use the ultra-wide if you [I]really[/I] have to for people. It will give group shots a weird look if taken too close at 11mm. If you're indoors, you're going to want to have a flash, and you're going to want it to be something other than the pop-up. If you've never done this then it's one more thing to pile on you, with no time to practice, but it makes a hell of a difference, even if all you're doing is bouncing a diffused light off the ceiling. The on-camera flash is going to give you very stark shadows and harsh light, which is going to look awful. I'm sure others will chime in. [/QUOTE]
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shooting a wedding- got the jitters- all pics blurry lately!!???
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