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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D5100
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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 176315" data-attributes="member: 12496"><p>Color:</p><p></p><p>Don't use Auto White Balance, esp not for flash. If it is Flash, why not just specify Flash WB? Humans know these things, computers don't always.</p><p></p><p>Which is still only an approximation, flash color varies with power level (speedlights, full power is more red, low power is more blue). But it is ballpark.</p><p></p><p>You can include a White Color Balance card in the first test shot, and then remove it for the real shot. This allows correcting the color so it is in fact white. A Porta Brace White Balance card is $5 at B&H, and it is real good.</p><p></p><p>But lacking that card, you can also just use an 18% gray card, or a regular white envelope, or sheet of cheapest white copy paper to do the same thing. It might not quite be 100% accurate, but it will much closer than any try with nothing.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.scantips.com/lights/flashbasics1f.html" target="_blank">http://www.scantips.com/lights/flashbasics1f.html</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 176315, member: 12496"] Color: Don't use Auto White Balance, esp not for flash. If it is Flash, why not just specify Flash WB? Humans know these things, computers don't always. Which is still only an approximation, flash color varies with power level (speedlights, full power is more red, low power is more blue). But it is ballpark. You can include a White Color Balance card in the first test shot, and then remove it for the real shot. This allows correcting the color so it is in fact white. A Porta Brace White Balance card is $5 at B&H, and it is real good. But lacking that card, you can also just use an 18% gray card, or a regular white envelope, or sheet of cheapest white copy paper to do the same thing. It might not quite be 100% accurate, but it will much closer than any try with nothing. [URL]http://www.scantips.com/lights/flashbasics1f.html[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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