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General Photography
Macro
Settings for Focus Shift Shooting - Z 105mm
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<blockquote data-quote="Clovishound" data-source="post: 829108" data-attributes="member: 50197"><p>I played around a little with the auto focus stacking and never use it anymore. Keep in mind, I do my macro almost exclusively in the field. I assume you are going to be using it for macro work, given the lens you mentioned. I do my focus stacks manually, and mostly handheld. Yes, sometimes they don't work post processing, but I use on camera, diffused flash for most of my macro shots, and so using a tripod does not work well for my style of shooting. I use Photoshop to stack the images, and I find it is extremely forgiving for framing discontinuity, but there are limits. I photograph a lot of insects, and they are normally poor subjects for focus stacking. Movement of the insect will usually result in extra antennae or leg in the stacked image. Sometimes that can be removed, but I only try this technique on insects that are rock still, which is seldom.</p><p></p><p>When I focus stack, I use the small apertures I normally use for maximum DOF, usually F11- F22. The Z105 micro has good diffusion control IMO, so I don't hesitate to use F22. Using small apertures has the advantages of not having to change my settings, and I can use fewer individual shots to get my stack. I start out with the camera focused on the nearest part of the image I want in focus and take a shot. I then move the camera to successively change the focus point further away from the camera until I have the rearmost point in focus. Like Blue439 mentioned for the auto process, the number I choose and how far between focus points is based on experience and trial and error. </p><p></p><p>I'm not trying to dissuade you from using the auto focus stacking, just giving you another option. I do know that the camera will refuse to initiate the focus stack if you have your settings incompatible with stacking, for example, camera in manual focus, or an incompatible focus mode. You will have to use a tripod with auto focus stacking as well. You start the focus stack through the menu, and so you have no way to see where you are focused when the exposures begin. This means you must be on a tripod, frame, and put your focus point on the nearest point you want in focus, and then go into the menu to start the process, blind, as it were.</p><p></p><p>What program will you use to stack the images? I assume you realize the camera will not stack the images in camera, you must use editing software to stack them.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Clovishound, post: 829108, member: 50197"] I played around a little with the auto focus stacking and never use it anymore. Keep in mind, I do my macro almost exclusively in the field. I assume you are going to be using it for macro work, given the lens you mentioned. I do my focus stacks manually, and mostly handheld. Yes, sometimes they don't work post processing, but I use on camera, diffused flash for most of my macro shots, and so using a tripod does not work well for my style of shooting. I use Photoshop to stack the images, and I find it is extremely forgiving for framing discontinuity, but there are limits. I photograph a lot of insects, and they are normally poor subjects for focus stacking. Movement of the insect will usually result in extra antennae or leg in the stacked image. Sometimes that can be removed, but I only try this technique on insects that are rock still, which is seldom. When I focus stack, I use the small apertures I normally use for maximum DOF, usually F11- F22. The Z105 micro has good diffusion control IMO, so I don't hesitate to use F22. Using small apertures has the advantages of not having to change my settings, and I can use fewer individual shots to get my stack. I start out with the camera focused on the nearest part of the image I want in focus and take a shot. I then move the camera to successively change the focus point further away from the camera until I have the rearmost point in focus. Like Blue439 mentioned for the auto process, the number I choose and how far between focus points is based on experience and trial and error. I'm not trying to dissuade you from using the auto focus stacking, just giving you another option. I do know that the camera will refuse to initiate the focus stack if you have your settings incompatible with stacking, for example, camera in manual focus, or an incompatible focus mode. You will have to use a tripod with auto focus stacking as well. You start the focus stack through the menu, and so you have no way to see where you are focused when the exposures begin. This means you must be on a tripod, frame, and put your focus point on the nearest point you want in focus, and then go into the menu to start the process, blind, as it were. What program will you use to stack the images? I assume you realize the camera will not stack the images in camera, you must use editing software to stack them. [/QUOTE]
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Settings for Focus Shift Shooting - Z 105mm
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