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SB-700 / SB-800 on D5300
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<blockquote data-quote="spb_stan" data-source="post: 651858" data-attributes="member: 43545"><p>Another factor to consider is heat management. I shot an event using two on-shoe flash on Christmas, a theatrical performance for kids with disabilities in a historic museum/school attached to a large ornate palace. I had a 70-200 on the D7000 and Yongnuo 568ex II and a D800 with SB-900 with 24-70 2.8.</p><p>In one scene 20 kids are invited to participate so wanted to get at least one shot feature an individual child plus the adult characters interacting. I used the 200mm, field of view for 300mm on the DX D7000 for reaction shots of audience members. About 200 shots into it performance the SB900 quite, noticed only after wasting a few shows without the flash going off. Glaced at the display and it had the over temp warning. I pulled it off and switched to the 568 and continued for the rest of the performance. I have only had that happen once before because I was shooting in low light in a large venue so every flash was a full dump. Usually, by choice of iso and shutter speed, I can reduce the power requirements. </p><p>SB900s gave problems to wedding shooters because churches often have very high ceilings and need a lot of power for a bounce. I like the SB900 but I usually do not need full power so they do all I need, plus have a narrower zoom beam width on the rare cases where I need to project a lot of light on a distant subject. Later model Yongnuo flash have 200mm field of view also.</p><p></p><p>Beginning with flash opens up all sorts of opportunities to have more control of your final results, and less constrained by ambient light that seldom cooperates. The first thing to get used to is manual exposure. Auto exposure modes are not recommended with flash and one reason is simply that it is easier and the second key reason is that it puts you back in control of how the results will turn out. The meter works in manual mode so you know what the exposure is in current condition if the flash does not fire. You do not want to adjust the exposure Triad (time, sensitivity and light gathering) of shutter, ISO and aperture. If you know the flash is going to add light, you do not want to center the light meter or else it will overexpose. So visualize what you want as a result. If you want great depth of field so subjects in the background and your target subject are both in focus you know you are needing to stop down to a smaller aperture(larger f/ number), if you know you want motion frozen you have the choice of freezing motion with fast shutter speed which exposes the background much darker, or use a slow shutter speed for a brighter background and let the flash due to its very fast pulse speed stop the action. Basically, you are selecting each exposure setting to for the desired image result, instead of overall exposure which is taken care of automatically by the flash. Without flash you are used to optimizing exposure but with flash in TTL mode, you are optimizing the image and then let the flash make up the difference needed for proper exposure. That means you need a bit of difference between the static meter reading and the final contribution to the light. It sounds more complicated but really is simpler than non-flash. Your only exposure decision is the relative brightness of background to subject. If you want the background to be dark, such as in a portrait in a non-ideal location with a messy background just dial in more underexposure on the meter so the background fades into black. On the other hand, if you are in a typical decently lit scene and the subject in front, dial in 1-2 stops underexposure. The subject will be properly exposed by the flash filling in the subject.</p><p>If taking flash shots of people have them move out from the wall to reduce a hard shadow on the back wall. Just having the flash head vertically above the axis of the lens causes shadows to fall behind the subject so the shadow in blocked from view from the point of view of the sensor. Having it higher and further from the axis of the sensor also lower the chances of "Red Eye", when a strong light on or near the axis of the lens, reflections from the retina of the eye, turning the center of the eye bright red.</p><p>With the TTL BL mode, fill light can make shooting people in midday sun much more attractive. I use flash almost every time I pick up the camera, indoors or out, nighttime or daytime.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="spb_stan, post: 651858, member: 43545"] Another factor to consider is heat management. I shot an event using two on-shoe flash on Christmas, a theatrical performance for kids with disabilities in a historic museum/school attached to a large ornate palace. I had a 70-200 on the D7000 and Yongnuo 568ex II and a D800 with SB-900 with 24-70 2.8. In one scene 20 kids are invited to participate so wanted to get at least one shot feature an individual child plus the adult characters interacting. I used the 200mm, field of view for 300mm on the DX D7000 for reaction shots of audience members. About 200 shots into it performance the SB900 quite, noticed only after wasting a few shows without the flash going off. Glaced at the display and it had the over temp warning. I pulled it off and switched to the 568 and continued for the rest of the performance. I have only had that happen once before because I was shooting in low light in a large venue so every flash was a full dump. Usually, by choice of iso and shutter speed, I can reduce the power requirements. SB900s gave problems to wedding shooters because churches often have very high ceilings and need a lot of power for a bounce. I like the SB900 but I usually do not need full power so they do all I need, plus have a narrower zoom beam width on the rare cases where I need to project a lot of light on a distant subject. Later model Yongnuo flash have 200mm field of view also. Beginning with flash opens up all sorts of opportunities to have more control of your final results, and less constrained by ambient light that seldom cooperates. The first thing to get used to is manual exposure. Auto exposure modes are not recommended with flash and one reason is simply that it is easier and the second key reason is that it puts you back in control of how the results will turn out. The meter works in manual mode so you know what the exposure is in current condition if the flash does not fire. You do not want to adjust the exposure Triad (time, sensitivity and light gathering) of shutter, ISO and aperture. If you know the flash is going to add light, you do not want to center the light meter or else it will overexpose. So visualize what you want as a result. If you want great depth of field so subjects in the background and your target subject are both in focus you know you are needing to stop down to a smaller aperture(larger f/ number), if you know you want motion frozen you have the choice of freezing motion with fast shutter speed which exposes the background much darker, or use a slow shutter speed for a brighter background and let the flash due to its very fast pulse speed stop the action. Basically, you are selecting each exposure setting to for the desired image result, instead of overall exposure which is taken care of automatically by the flash. Without flash you are used to optimizing exposure but with flash in TTL mode, you are optimizing the image and then let the flash make up the difference needed for proper exposure. That means you need a bit of difference between the static meter reading and the final contribution to the light. It sounds more complicated but really is simpler than non-flash. Your only exposure decision is the relative brightness of background to subject. If you want the background to be dark, such as in a portrait in a non-ideal location with a messy background just dial in more underexposure on the meter so the background fades into black. On the other hand, if you are in a typical decently lit scene and the subject in front, dial in 1-2 stops underexposure. The subject will be properly exposed by the flash filling in the subject. If taking flash shots of people have them move out from the wall to reduce a hard shadow on the back wall. Just having the flash head vertically above the axis of the lens causes shadows to fall behind the subject so the shadow in blocked from view from the point of view of the sensor. Having it higher and further from the axis of the sensor also lower the chances of "Red Eye", when a strong light on or near the axis of the lens, reflections from the retina of the eye, turning the center of the eye bright red. With the TTL BL mode, fill light can make shooting people in midday sun much more attractive. I use flash almost every time I pick up the camera, indoors or out, nighttime or daytime. [/QUOTE]
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