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Recommendation for D7000/ Yongnuo YN-565EX ETTL Settings for Models?
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<blockquote data-quote="spb_stan" data-source="post: 721070" data-attributes="member: 43545"><p>You are making the camera do too much of the deciding. Turn off EVERYTHING and with flash shoot manual exposure. Itis much easier and more consistent. Auto ISO---off</p><p>Bracketing --off</p><p>Aperture priority --off</p><p>Shutter priority --off</p><p>Easy compensation--off</p><p></p><p>Manual exposure triad....aperture, shutter and ISO all need to be set for the specific feature that control. There would be reasons to set the shutter very slow, moderate or fast when using flash based on desired results</p><p>DOF is an important concept that your intended results would be impacted by. Outdoors with a busy background, a shallow Depth of Field to allow the subject to pop out of a blurry background calls for a lage aperture. A longer Depth of Field is best when the entire target subject is to be sharp like in a studio where you have multiple light sources and controlled background means stopped down. Weaker lenses often perform very well at f/5.6 or f/8</p><p>ISO is a consideration in noise tolerance and light contribution from flash. </p><p>Set those parameters based on condtions and intent of the shot. After that, let the flash make up the difference.</p><p>The balance between ambient and flash really changes the image and is a creative tool. If you want the background to be close to the exposure of the subject, make all your exposure adjustments to expose the background as you prefer and let the flash take care of exposure of the subject. The background will not be influenced as much by the flash but the subject exposure will be determine almost entirely by the flash due to the vast difference in exposure duration between ambient and the very short flash pulse.</p><p>All this sounds confusing at first but once you get the hang of manual exposure you will see why almost all serious flash or strobe photography is done in manual mode. It is also faster. </p><p>I shot 435 frames last night, all flash, and no exposure problems or missed focus in a highly variable lighting environment of a dance club for the owners who wanted promo shots for their nightly music programs. Between fob machines, laser sweeps and wild mixes of color temperature and light intensity. Every shot worked, all manual and no hassle or wasted time.</p><p>It is not hard or time consuming, it takes less time than constantly dialing in different ratios of light.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="spb_stan, post: 721070, member: 43545"] You are making the camera do too much of the deciding. Turn off EVERYTHING and with flash shoot manual exposure. Itis much easier and more consistent. Auto ISO---off Bracketing --off Aperture priority --off Shutter priority --off Easy compensation--off Manual exposure triad....aperture, shutter and ISO all need to be set for the specific feature that control. There would be reasons to set the shutter very slow, moderate or fast when using flash based on desired results DOF is an important concept that your intended results would be impacted by. Outdoors with a busy background, a shallow Depth of Field to allow the subject to pop out of a blurry background calls for a lage aperture. A longer Depth of Field is best when the entire target subject is to be sharp like in a studio where you have multiple light sources and controlled background means stopped down. Weaker lenses often perform very well at f/5.6 or f/8 ISO is a consideration in noise tolerance and light contribution from flash. Set those parameters based on condtions and intent of the shot. After that, let the flash make up the difference. The balance between ambient and flash really changes the image and is a creative tool. If you want the background to be close to the exposure of the subject, make all your exposure adjustments to expose the background as you prefer and let the flash take care of exposure of the subject. The background will not be influenced as much by the flash but the subject exposure will be determine almost entirely by the flash due to the vast difference in exposure duration between ambient and the very short flash pulse. All this sounds confusing at first but once you get the hang of manual exposure you will see why almost all serious flash or strobe photography is done in manual mode. It is also faster. I shot 435 frames last night, all flash, and no exposure problems or missed focus in a highly variable lighting environment of a dance club for the owners who wanted promo shots for their nightly music programs. Between fob machines, laser sweeps and wild mixes of color temperature and light intensity. Every shot worked, all manual and no hassle or wasted time. It is not hard or time consuming, it takes less time than constantly dialing in different ratios of light. [/QUOTE]
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Recommendation for D7000/ Yongnuo YN-565EX ETTL Settings for Models?
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