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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 231568" data-attributes="member: 12496">There is a Red Eye Reduction feature (D3200 page 47, manual named D3200 Reference Manual).But you will not like it.&nbsp; &nbsp; It delays the shutter for about a second while it flashes a few times, trying to reduce the diameter of the eye pupil.&nbsp; That is the pits, and it may not work.What you need instead is greater separation distance between flash and lens.&nbsp; Off camera flash for example. Red eye is that straight-back reflection on the back of the eye... the flash lighting it, and the lens at the same angle seeing it.&nbsp; So a flash in a Nikon SC-28 cord, held in outstretched left hand, would be well off camera, and this &quot;same angle&quot; reflection would not exist.&nbsp; Lighting would be better too.But if you had an external hot shoe flash, the larger sized ones with flash head maybe 5 inches above the lens (instead of 2 inches for popup flash, and 1/2 inch in compact cameras), it will help red eye considerably (but 5 inches may not be fully 100%).&nbsp;&nbsp; One old rule of thumb (not particularly accurate) says to minimize Red Eye, we need one inch of flash separation for every foot distance to the subject.It will help much more if you aimed this hot shoe flash head up at the ceiling, and used bounce flash. Your photo lighting would be vastly better too.&nbsp; Bounce again needs a 'regular&quot; full size, full powered flash. The dog is on the floor, and you're probably down there with it, so the ceiling is much higher than if all were standing.&nbsp;&nbsp; So for power too, the flash should be comparable to SB-700 size, but could be a cheaper third party brand.&nbsp; &nbsp; Then Red Eye will be only a distant memory.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 231568, member: 12496"] There is a Red Eye Reduction feature (D3200 page 47, manual named D3200 Reference Manual). But you will not like it. It delays the shutter for about a second while it flashes a few times, trying to reduce the diameter of the eye pupil. That is the pits, and it may not work. What you need instead is greater separation distance between flash and lens. Off camera flash for example. Red eye is that straight-back reflection on the back of the eye... the flash lighting it, and the lens at the same angle seeing it. So a flash in a Nikon SC-28 cord, held in outstretched left hand, would be well off camera, and this "same angle" reflection would not exist. Lighting would be better too. But if you had an external hot shoe flash, the larger sized ones with flash head maybe 5 inches above the lens (instead of 2 inches for popup flash, and 1/2 inch in compact cameras), it will help red eye considerably (but 5 inches may not be fully 100%). One old rule of thumb (not particularly accurate) says to minimize Red Eye, we need one inch of flash separation for every foot distance to the subject. It will help much more if you aimed this hot shoe flash head up at the ceiling, and used bounce flash. Your photo lighting would be vastly better too. Bounce again needs a 'regular" full size, full powered flash. The dog is on the floor, and you're probably down there with it, so the ceiling is much higher than if all were standing. So for power too, the flash should be comparable to SB-700 size, but could be a cheaper third party brand. Then Red Eye will be only a distant memory. [/QUOTE]

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