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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D7100
Posting Some Images
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<blockquote data-quote="Moab Man" data-source="post: 190551" data-attributes="member: 11881"><p>Photos not level. Right side needs to come up.</p><p></p><p>Cloudless sky can be tough!</p><p></p><p>When I shoot a sunset I never trust the metering because there is such a dramatic light shift from the setting area to the up close overhead. I like to shoot a couple test shots to dial it in by my eye so that my setting sun isn't so hot. Then I use the bracketing to shoot over and under where i think it should be. </p><p></p><p>ISO is really quite high as you said. </p><p></p><p>One of the things that drove me insane when I first started shooting sunsets is that I was following the metering. The darker it got the camera is of course trying to get you to adjust to allow more light in and bring up the exposure. As a result you keep losing the brilliant colors. So I took that meter and tossed it to the side and forged my own path. Here is what I do that might help.</p><p></p><p>1. At the beginning of the evening shoot, when the sun is low and the sunset is about to start, I will open up my aperture, set my ISO to 100 or 200, set white balance to sunlight or whatever you prefer (just not auto white balance or it will try to correct as the colors change), and finally my shutter speed so that the picture in my camera is matching what the view in front of me looks like. </p><p></p><p>2. I set my bracketing to 0.3</p><p></p><p>3. Tripod mounted and the camera set to remote Mup. (Two clicks of the remote - first click puts mirror up and the second takes the shot.) You now have to remember that the camera will need to be shot three times because you're bracketing. The other option is to set you dial to a timer delay, reduce it to 2 seconds, and put the camera on live view. Then manually press the shutter button and let go. The camera will then fire all three shots.</p><p></p><p>4. As the sun goes down, and the metering screams ADJUST ME! I leave it alone. This will allow the camera to capture all the brilliant colors. On rare occasions will I break my rule and adjust the shutter to go a little longer if it has gotten too dark, but there are still great colors to capture. I then start adjusting my shutter until the camera image is showing me what I have in front of me. </p><p></p><p>5. Now I just sit there and burn digital film capturing all the changes.</p><p></p><p>Anyway, that is my technique that works well for me. Others may/will do something different. Feel free to pull my technique apart and use what you like.</p><p></p><p>This photo was done with the aforementioned technique. While I was shooting this photo a lot of other people were also trying to capture it but could not. Difference was that all the point and shoots everyone was using were trying to adjust for how dark it was getting which washed out the colors. Clouds and forest fires, not that I encourage you to start one, provide for great colors. </p><p>[ATTACH]49437[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Moab Man, post: 190551, member: 11881"] Photos not level. Right side needs to come up. Cloudless sky can be tough! When I shoot a sunset I never trust the metering because there is such a dramatic light shift from the setting area to the up close overhead. I like to shoot a couple test shots to dial it in by my eye so that my setting sun isn't so hot. Then I use the bracketing to shoot over and under where i think it should be. ISO is really quite high as you said. One of the things that drove me insane when I first started shooting sunsets is that I was following the metering. The darker it got the camera is of course trying to get you to adjust to allow more light in and bring up the exposure. As a result you keep losing the brilliant colors. So I took that meter and tossed it to the side and forged my own path. Here is what I do that might help. 1. At the beginning of the evening shoot, when the sun is low and the sunset is about to start, I will open up my aperture, set my ISO to 100 or 200, set white balance to sunlight or whatever you prefer (just not auto white balance or it will try to correct as the colors change), and finally my shutter speed so that the picture in my camera is matching what the view in front of me looks like. 2. I set my bracketing to 0.3 3. Tripod mounted and the camera set to remote Mup. (Two clicks of the remote - first click puts mirror up and the second takes the shot.) You now have to remember that the camera will need to be shot three times because you're bracketing. The other option is to set you dial to a timer delay, reduce it to 2 seconds, and put the camera on live view. Then manually press the shutter button and let go. The camera will then fire all three shots. 4. As the sun goes down, and the metering screams ADJUST ME! I leave it alone. This will allow the camera to capture all the brilliant colors. On rare occasions will I break my rule and adjust the shutter to go a little longer if it has gotten too dark, but there are still great colors to capture. I then start adjusting my shutter until the camera image is showing me what I have in front of me. 5. Now I just sit there and burn digital film capturing all the changes. Anyway, that is my technique that works well for me. Others may/will do something different. Feel free to pull my technique apart and use what you like. This photo was done with the aforementioned technique. While I was shooting this photo a lot of other people were also trying to capture it but could not. Difference was that all the point and shoots everyone was using were trying to adjust for how dark it was getting which washed out the colors. Clouds and forest fires, not that I encourage you to start one, provide for great colors. [ATTACH=CONFIG]49437._xfImport[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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