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Please Help me build a Studio Setup
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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 183569" data-attributes="member: 12496"><p>It is a personal choice about speedlights vs studio lights.</p><p></p><p> Speedlights can work, but studio lights offer much in that use (more convenient, more versatile, more power, and some are perhaps less expensive than some speedlights). Main thing is AC power, more power, and rapid recycle and high duty cycle, you can shoot fast when your subject is peaking. You don't need a lot of power, but 300 watt seconds class is very versatile. 150 watts seconds work indoors, but maybe not out in sun.</p><p></p><p>I use a 160 watt second light at no more than 1/4 power for my main light (large softbox positioned close), ISO 100, shooting f/8 or f/10. My fill umbrella is behind the camera (farther), at reduced level, but it needs more power to reach. Speedlights could do that, but maybe not at f/10.</p><p></p><p>Speedlights, are maybe 60 to 75 watt seconds equivalent (double power is one stop, 4x power is two stops). And you wait for recycle and cool down, and you watch your batteries. This gets old real fast, IMO. However, TTL setup is really fast and self metering, nearly zero time. Manual light setup is slow and tedious (but you have full control).</p><p></p><p> Nikon commander with two groups works for Main and fill, but more lights are a problem (no individual control). You really want manual lights (for more control), your portrait subject isn't going anywhere.</p><p></p><p>Whatever you do, pick one system (commander or full real manual) and go with it. Don't plan on mixing systems, like attempting optical slaves or flash meter with the Commander. Cannot work. Pick one system, and go with it.</p><p></p><p>Studio, you can fit modifiers (sofboxes, grids, snoots, etc). Speedlights are pretty much only umbrellas, but which work good. I like reflected MUCH better than shoot through.</p><p></p><p>But it is a choice, it can all be made to work. Your SB-700 has its SU-4 slave mode, so it can easily be used as another light with studio lights. Just set it out there and it works very fine, like as a hair light or even normal backgrounds, but you do have to wait for its recycle (which can be fast if close).</p><p></p><p>As to Essentials, other than lights, I would say a hand held flash meter (to set up multiple manual lights) and a white balance card for the first test shot.</p><p></p><p>Maybe see <a href="http://www.scantips.com/lights/setup/" target="_blank">45 degree Portrait Lighting Setup</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 183569, member: 12496"] It is a personal choice about speedlights vs studio lights. Speedlights can work, but studio lights offer much in that use (more convenient, more versatile, more power, and some are perhaps less expensive than some speedlights). Main thing is AC power, more power, and rapid recycle and high duty cycle, you can shoot fast when your subject is peaking. You don't need a lot of power, but 300 watt seconds class is very versatile. 150 watts seconds work indoors, but maybe not out in sun. I use a 160 watt second light at no more than 1/4 power for my main light (large softbox positioned close), ISO 100, shooting f/8 or f/10. My fill umbrella is behind the camera (farther), at reduced level, but it needs more power to reach. Speedlights could do that, but maybe not at f/10. Speedlights, are maybe 60 to 75 watt seconds equivalent (double power is one stop, 4x power is two stops). And you wait for recycle and cool down, and you watch your batteries. This gets old real fast, IMO. However, TTL setup is really fast and self metering, nearly zero time. Manual light setup is slow and tedious (but you have full control). Nikon commander with two groups works for Main and fill, but more lights are a problem (no individual control). You really want manual lights (for more control), your portrait subject isn't going anywhere. Whatever you do, pick one system (commander or full real manual) and go with it. Don't plan on mixing systems, like attempting optical slaves or flash meter with the Commander. Cannot work. Pick one system, and go with it. Studio, you can fit modifiers (sofboxes, grids, snoots, etc). Speedlights are pretty much only umbrellas, but which work good. I like reflected MUCH better than shoot through. But it is a choice, it can all be made to work. Your SB-700 has its SU-4 slave mode, so it can easily be used as another light with studio lights. Just set it out there and it works very fine, like as a hair light or even normal backgrounds, but you do have to wait for its recycle (which can be fast if close). As to Essentials, other than lights, I would say a hand held flash meter (to set up multiple manual lights) and a white balance card for the first test shot. Maybe see [URL="http://www.scantips.com/lights/setup/"]45 degree Portrait Lighting Setup[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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