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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 347397" data-attributes="member: 12496"><p>Latitude is a key point. Sunny 16 said bright sun was a shutter speed of 1/ISO at f/16, and it worked well for negative film, which had wide latitude, so exact exposure was less important for the negative film. It could always be corrected in the dark room. Photo finisher labs did heroic things with exposure and white balance of our film (mostly we not even know about white balance). Overexposure was sort of a virtue for negative film, extra insurance. However, slide reversal film and digital is harder, certainly overexposure becomes a real problem.</p><p></p><p>I think every roll of Kodak film sold had an instruction sheet that included Sunny 16 (as exposure instruction). Its hard for us to judge degree of overcast and cloudy exactly, but watching the shadows makes it much easier. Sharp shadows, soft shadows, barely visible shadows, no shadows. these were one stop steps. We can see that. And we ought to still always notice it.</p><p></p><p>Our meters will be much more accurate, but a thought in our head ought to always be, is this a reasonable reading? Comparing to Sunny 16 is a backup. Sunny 16 does not work at all well in partial shade situations, but it is pretty good out in the open, out in the light that exists. The meter is always better (if done right), but it ought not to disagree too much.</p><p></p><p>Sunny 16 says bright sun is not exactly EV 15, but within 1/3 stop. EV is not based on the sun, but instead the base is that any 1 second f/1 exposure is EV 0.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 347397, member: 12496"] Latitude is a key point. Sunny 16 said bright sun was a shutter speed of 1/ISO at f/16, and it worked well for negative film, which had wide latitude, so exact exposure was less important for the negative film. It could always be corrected in the dark room. Photo finisher labs did heroic things with exposure and white balance of our film (mostly we not even know about white balance). Overexposure was sort of a virtue for negative film, extra insurance. However, slide reversal film and digital is harder, certainly overexposure becomes a real problem. I think every roll of Kodak film sold had an instruction sheet that included Sunny 16 (as exposure instruction). Its hard for us to judge degree of overcast and cloudy exactly, but watching the shadows makes it much easier. Sharp shadows, soft shadows, barely visible shadows, no shadows. these were one stop steps. We can see that. And we ought to still always notice it. Our meters will be much more accurate, but a thought in our head ought to always be, is this a reasonable reading? Comparing to Sunny 16 is a backup. Sunny 16 does not work at all well in partial shade situations, but it is pretty good out in the open, out in the light that exists. The meter is always better (if done right), but it ought not to disagree too much. Sunny 16 says bright sun is not exactly EV 15, but within 1/3 stop. EV is not based on the sun, but instead the base is that any 1 second f/1 exposure is EV 0. [/QUOTE]
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