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<blockquote data-quote="Horoscope Fish" data-source="post: 347303" data-attributes="member: 13090"><p>That's called Exposure Reciprocity and it's one of the basic rules that used to be taught to photographers some years ago. The concept seems to baffle many but as you correctly point out once we establish a base-line for proper exposure we can adjust our settings and *know* our exposure is still correct while controlling depth of field (aperture), motion blur (shutter speed) and digital noise/grain (ISO). </p><p></p><p>Using Sunny 16 as our baseline we know f/16 @ 1/125 (Sunny 16) = f/8 @ 1/250 = f/5.6 @1/500 = f4/@1/1000 = f/2.8 @1/2000 etc. etc. etc.</p><p></p><p>We can do the same thing with ISO. If use "Sunny 16" at ISO 400 then f/16 @ 1/400 = f/8 @ 1/800 = f5.6 @ 1/1600 = f/4 @ 1/3200 etc. etc. etc.</p><p></p><p>Of course now we all have preview LCD's and histograms so these base skills are becoming a sort of Lost Art.</p><p></p><p><span style="color: #ffffff">....</span></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Horoscope Fish, post: 347303, member: 13090"] That's called Exposure Reciprocity and it's one of the basic rules that used to be taught to photographers some years ago. The concept seems to baffle many but as you correctly point out once we establish a base-line for proper exposure we can adjust our settings and *know* our exposure is still correct while controlling depth of field (aperture), motion blur (shutter speed) and digital noise/grain (ISO). Using Sunny 16 as our baseline we know f/16 @ 1/125 (Sunny 16) = f/8 @ 1/250 = f/5.6 @1/500 = f4/@1/1000 = f/2.8 @1/2000 etc. etc. etc. We can do the same thing with ISO. If use "Sunny 16" at ISO 400 then f/16 @ 1/400 = f/8 @ 1/800 = f5.6 @ 1/1600 = f/4 @ 1/3200 etc. etc. etc. Of course now we all have preview LCD's and histograms so these base skills are becoming a sort of Lost Art. [COLOR=#ffffff]....[/COLOR] [/QUOTE]
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