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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D3200
Other movie mode issues
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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 292803" data-attributes="member: 12496"><p>Uh Oh.... <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> I am not big into movie mode, and may not be able to contribute much about it, so keep looking for help.</p><p></p><p>The DSLR has some advantages for movies, and a regular camcorder has advantages. Camcorder will be more convenient, and its tiny sensor offers great depth of field (focus is much less a factor). However, most camcorders are very fully automatic, and the DSLR offers more choices, and typically has superb lens quality. For what little I do, I usually use a little camcorder, with which I find little fault.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>I may misunderstand your words, but it does not mean to zoom with the lens, it means to zoom the viewfinder (your word digital probably). D3200 manual says:</p><p> </p><p>To magnify the view in the monitor up to about 9.4 ×</p><p>for precise focus, press the X button. While the view</p><p>through the lens is zoomed in, a navigation window</p><p>will appear in a gray frame at the bottom right corner</p><p>of the display. Use the multi selector to scroll to</p><p>areas of the frame not visible in the monitor</p><p></p><p>This is an excellent technique for still pictures too... not in all cases, or most cases, but certainly in difficult cases. For example, stars at night.. both the view finder and live view will be useless to focus on a star. Cannot see them. But in Live View, you can zoom the LCD display far until you can see the star, and then focus on that. Works very well, in such cases. If you cannot see it, zoom in at the LCD until you can.</p><p></p><p>Not sure that will help much in routine focusing on things you can see anyway. Can't hurt to try at any difficulty.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>In dim light, you will be at high ISO. And 30 frames per second will mean 1/30 second shutter speed. It won't be a choice.</p><p>But in brighter light, they say 1/60 second is better, and a good choice (less blur, but not choppy). Very high shutter speeds are still shown at 30 frames per second, and a very fast shutter is said to possibly cause choppiness of motion. And of course, a high shutter speed increases ISO.</p><p></p><p>Yes, you stop and go into A mode to change aperture before starting the movie recording. Movies are many short sequences anyway. Movie mode is much more automatic than still. Except for Manual mode, it is always auto ISO. And aperture cannot be adjusted during live view, only before (high end models like D800 are different, aperture can be adjusted). At least you can choose aperture before you begin - Many camcorders have no provision at all for it. At least the DSLR shows you what ISO is being used.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>The DSLR should have less noise (larger pixels) than a camcorder, but it probably has a f/4 lens instead of f/1.8, so the ISO gets cranked up higher.</p><p></p><p>Typically DSLR 1920x1080 movie recording will only use like every second or third row of sensor pixels, so the larger sensor concept confuses me. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> I have no opinion answer I can offer.</p><p></p><p>However, noise seems not much problem either way (DSLR or camcorder), even at rather high ISO. The picture is only shown for 1/30 second, so we don't get a good look at the noise. The next frame is different, and sort of averages it out.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Sounds extremely interesting. Practice some first. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 292803, member: 12496"] Uh Oh.... :) I am not big into movie mode, and may not be able to contribute much about it, so keep looking for help. The DSLR has some advantages for movies, and a regular camcorder has advantages. Camcorder will be more convenient, and its tiny sensor offers great depth of field (focus is much less a factor). However, most camcorders are very fully automatic, and the DSLR offers more choices, and typically has superb lens quality. For what little I do, I usually use a little camcorder, with which I find little fault. I may misunderstand your words, but it does not mean to zoom with the lens, it means to zoom the viewfinder (your word digital probably). D3200 manual says: To magnify the view in the monitor up to about 9.4 × for precise focus, press the X button. While the view through the lens is zoomed in, a navigation window will appear in a gray frame at the bottom right corner of the display. Use the multi selector to scroll to areas of the frame not visible in the monitor This is an excellent technique for still pictures too... not in all cases, or most cases, but certainly in difficult cases. For example, stars at night.. both the view finder and live view will be useless to focus on a star. Cannot see them. But in Live View, you can zoom the LCD display far until you can see the star, and then focus on that. Works very well, in such cases. If you cannot see it, zoom in at the LCD until you can. Not sure that will help much in routine focusing on things you can see anyway. Can't hurt to try at any difficulty. In dim light, you will be at high ISO. And 30 frames per second will mean 1/30 second shutter speed. It won't be a choice. But in brighter light, they say 1/60 second is better, and a good choice (less blur, but not choppy). Very high shutter speeds are still shown at 30 frames per second, and a very fast shutter is said to possibly cause choppiness of motion. And of course, a high shutter speed increases ISO. Yes, you stop and go into A mode to change aperture before starting the movie recording. Movies are many short sequences anyway. Movie mode is much more automatic than still. Except for Manual mode, it is always auto ISO. And aperture cannot be adjusted during live view, only before (high end models like D800 are different, aperture can be adjusted). At least you can choose aperture before you begin - Many camcorders have no provision at all for it. At least the DSLR shows you what ISO is being used. The DSLR should have less noise (larger pixels) than a camcorder, but it probably has a f/4 lens instead of f/1.8, so the ISO gets cranked up higher. Typically DSLR 1920x1080 movie recording will only use like every second or third row of sensor pixels, so the larger sensor concept confuses me. :) I have no opinion answer I can offer. However, noise seems not much problem either way (DSLR or camcorder), even at rather high ISO. The picture is only shown for 1/30 second, so we don't get a good look at the noise. The next frame is different, and sort of averages it out. Sounds extremely interesting. Practice some first. :) [/QUOTE]
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Other movie mode issues
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