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Optimum Settiings For Hockey Photography
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<blockquote data-quote="skater" data-source="post: 327409" data-attributes="member: 19158"><p>It's a good starting point, definitely. (Actually I haven't tried it on a 7100, so perhaps it's far better than my 7000's sports mode.)</p><p></p><p>I set a fairly fast shutter speed and let the aperture float. Set the focus to single point, continuous focus (AF-C), set the ISO pretty high (at least 3200, but probably even higher), and continuous shooting (I use slow mode), and let fly. Without getting into peeping at the pixels, zoom in on a few shots and confirm that the moving player is in fact not blurry - this is the hardest part; don't confuse motion blur with "out of focus" or noise from the high ISO. Make corrections while you're still there; don't wait until you're home to discover every picture you took was blurry.</p><p></p><p>If you have to choose between sharp or dark, remember that dark is easier to correct in post processing. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>You may also run into a headache - you'll want to zoom in, but that closes your aperture even farther, so your pictures will be even darker. Aha, you say, I'll just stay zoomed out and crop! Which is a valid solution, especially with the high-pixel-count cameras of today, but then that also increases the likelihood of missing the focus on the player and getting the boards behind them.</p><p></p><p>I take quite a few hockey pictures (we go to ~15 NHL and AHL games each season), and what I've learned is that hockey is one of the places where you really start bumping into the limits of your lenses if you have ones with smaller apertures. You can get some great shots, unquestionably, especially with post processing, but you'll probably see the limits. It's relatively low light and fast action - a difficult combination. After many trials and errors, and with advice from the good people here, I've gotten to the point where it's basically routine and I'm almost bored doing it for the 12th time in a season, but it took several years and quite a few pictures to hit that point. I haven't taken the next step into a better lens...I drool over them, but haven't bought one. I had one in my hands at the duty-free shop in Heathrow a couple weeks back...but then I realized I could get it cheaper back in the US if I really were going to buy one.</p><p></p><p>By the way, the comment about the settings being different for each venue is right on target: I have one of my user modes set up for the most common arena we frequent, but I need slightly different settings at the other arenas. At the very least the white balance is a bit different.</p><p></p><p>Good luck!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="skater, post: 327409, member: 19158"] It's a good starting point, definitely. (Actually I haven't tried it on a 7100, so perhaps it's far better than my 7000's sports mode.) I set a fairly fast shutter speed and let the aperture float. Set the focus to single point, continuous focus (AF-C), set the ISO pretty high (at least 3200, but probably even higher), and continuous shooting (I use slow mode), and let fly. Without getting into peeping at the pixels, zoom in on a few shots and confirm that the moving player is in fact not blurry - this is the hardest part; don't confuse motion blur with "out of focus" or noise from the high ISO. Make corrections while you're still there; don't wait until you're home to discover every picture you took was blurry. If you have to choose between sharp or dark, remember that dark is easier to correct in post processing. :) You may also run into a headache - you'll want to zoom in, but that closes your aperture even farther, so your pictures will be even darker. Aha, you say, I'll just stay zoomed out and crop! Which is a valid solution, especially with the high-pixel-count cameras of today, but then that also increases the likelihood of missing the focus on the player and getting the boards behind them. I take quite a few hockey pictures (we go to ~15 NHL and AHL games each season), and what I've learned is that hockey is one of the places where you really start bumping into the limits of your lenses if you have ones with smaller apertures. You can get some great shots, unquestionably, especially with post processing, but you'll probably see the limits. It's relatively low light and fast action - a difficult combination. After many trials and errors, and with advice from the good people here, I've gotten to the point where it's basically routine and I'm almost bored doing it for the 12th time in a season, but it took several years and quite a few pictures to hit that point. I haven't taken the next step into a better lens...I drool over them, but haven't bought one. I had one in my hands at the duty-free shop in Heathrow a couple weeks back...but then I realized I could get it cheaper back in the US if I really were going to buy one. By the way, the comment about the settings being different for each venue is right on target: I have one of my user modes set up for the most common arena we frequent, but I need slightly different settings at the other arenas. At the very least the white balance is a bit different. Good luck! [/QUOTE]
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