Maybe we need to see an example to be sure what you mean, but you said in the "good area", so am assuming you specifically do Not mean a vertical line at the extreme right end of the histogram field.
It does not need to be handled. A histogram is a bar chart showing the relative count of image pixels for each tonal value from 0 to 255. A spike at the extreme right end denotes clipping (cannot go brighter than 255, so it stacks up there), which should be handled by reducing exposure. But a little spike at any other point is merely the count of pixels with that particular tonal value. For example, white is bright, and common, and a white cloud or a white house or sign or shirt might cause a higher count of that value, as a little spike. It is what it is, and how it should be.
A spike is just a pixel count, which just means the image AREA of that bright tone is large enough to stand out in a pixel count. But if it is in the picture, then it should be there.
If you use Adobe, both the white point slider in the Levels tool, or the Raw slider for Exposure will identify what your spike is.
In one of these two tools, hold the ALT key down (I think Options key in a Mac) while slightly adjusting that slider. Adjust it brighter, causing intentional clipping (just for this test, then cancel out of it). The preview image goes dark then EXCEPT for the clipped tones at the value of the slider. So as you adjust to slide the spike point to the right, causing clipping, then you see pixels light up where that point is (of that value), and so you know the image area, and then you can see what detail is there. This will be clear when you try it.
So you can identify the spike detail. This identifies your spike, and depending on what it is, in general, it helps judge if a bit of clipping is important or not, or can be tolerated as helpful or not. It tells you what you're doing, and if you really want to do it.
There is no preferred shape of a histogram. It reflects whatever the image data is. A black cat in a coal mine will be mostly all dark tones (large dark areas). A white polar bear on the snow in the sun will be mostly all bright tones (large bright area). Neither shape is necessarily preferable, it depends on how the image should be.
I suppose the white bear in a coal mine would look unusual, but if that's the situation, the histogram ought to show it.
We really only have one or maybe two reasons to look at a histogram.
We normally want to avoid clipping, which causes a tall spike at the far right 255 end. That is clipping, and then bright detail is lost, and cannot be recovered. So we back off on exposure to avoid that clipping. This check is extremely important. In the camera, only examine it in the three RGB histograms. The single gray histogram is Not real data, but only a math simulation which is useless to inspect clipping (see
Two types of Histograms )
And we might increase exposure so the data approaches (but does not touch) that right end. That assumes an average scene (containing a wide mix of subject colors, particularly bright or white.). Assuming there are bright colors present, then we want most images to be reasonably bright, extending towards the right, but Not touching the right border (which becomes clipping).
However, we can also easily judge that (maybe better) by simply looking at the rear LCD preview image, to note its brightness. I set my rear LCD level to -1 to better match how I will see the image in the photo editor. This does not help seeing it in bright sun, but it is more more accurate to judge exposure. The importance is about how the image looks, not what the histogram looks like. The histogram might be a helpful guide though.