Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
New profile posts
Latest activity
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Learning
Flashes
Nikon SB-400
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 193006" data-attributes="member: 12496"><p>Not sure of your compensation issues, but there are details, and we do have to watch and help as appears necessary. White dogs for example (any white scene) tends to meter dark, and a bit +EV compensation is often necessary (flash or no flash). White reflects a lot of light, and the reflective meter wants to make all things average out middle tone, and therefore white is made to come out as gray, unless compensated. Black comes out as gray, unless compensated. However, a few ifs and buts...</p><p></p><p>I assume dog scenes are outdoors, in sunlight. Proper sun ambient exposure and proper flash exposure is two proper exposures, and when added, is 2x normal exposure at the subject, which is overexposed one stop. We simply learn to expect that. So with TTL flash mode, we simply just know to use -1.7 Flash Compensation then (in bright sun). Or this is what TTL BL flash mode is for, it tries to do this automatically for us (balanced, reduced flash, more point&shoot), so that 0 EV flash compensation is not far wrong, fill flash in bright sun, for TTL BL.</p><p></p><p>Direct flash suffers from inverse square law falloff, and generally tends to overexpose (since the indoor backgrounds are therefore dark, and metering tries to make all dark things be lighter middle gray). </p><p></p><p>Whereas, bounce (in a regular size room) remains more even lighting, everything is more equal distance from the ceiling, so less noticeable falloff, and is often less problem (plus, just generally superior lighting, NOT flat light like direct flash).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 193006, member: 12496"] Not sure of your compensation issues, but there are details, and we do have to watch and help as appears necessary. White dogs for example (any white scene) tends to meter dark, and a bit +EV compensation is often necessary (flash or no flash). White reflects a lot of light, and the reflective meter wants to make all things average out middle tone, and therefore white is made to come out as gray, unless compensated. Black comes out as gray, unless compensated. However, a few ifs and buts... I assume dog scenes are outdoors, in sunlight. Proper sun ambient exposure and proper flash exposure is two proper exposures, and when added, is 2x normal exposure at the subject, which is overexposed one stop. We simply learn to expect that. So with TTL flash mode, we simply just know to use -1.7 Flash Compensation then (in bright sun). Or this is what TTL BL flash mode is for, it tries to do this automatically for us (balanced, reduced flash, more point&shoot), so that 0 EV flash compensation is not far wrong, fill flash in bright sun, for TTL BL. Direct flash suffers from inverse square law falloff, and generally tends to overexpose (since the indoor backgrounds are therefore dark, and metering tries to make all dark things be lighter middle gray). Whereas, bounce (in a regular size room) remains more even lighting, everything is more equal distance from the ceiling, so less noticeable falloff, and is often less problem (plus, just generally superior lighting, NOT flat light like direct flash). [/QUOTE]
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Learning
Flashes
Nikon SB-400
Top