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Message: <blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 192337" data-attributes="member: 12496">Yes, we always watch results regarding consideration of flash compensation.   Yes, reflective metering varies with subject, and a bit of flash compensation is sometimes necessary, but not necessarily always.  TTL BL flashes probably need +1EV much of the time indoors.  TTL mode fill flashes always need about -1.7EV in bright sun. TTL mode indoors, less so, but it definitely depends on the subject you aim at.  But Compensation is NOT about a one time calibration of the flash or camera.... it is about whatever subject you aim it at.  Just watch, and do what you see you need to do.The D3 is a bit unique, in that it does not have an internal flash.  It of course works with external flashes, and even includes the FV Lock option (normally omitted from lesser cameras without Commander).    But a search of the D3 manual appears that it does not have a Flash Compensation control.  Normally, it is the same button as Flash Mode (sync mode), same button, just the other wheel.But there are still choices.  The flash unit itself has flash compensation, which does the same thing.  Called Flash Output Level Compensation in the SB-900 manual, D-37 English version.  It adds +EV or -EV of TTL flash exposure, affecting the metered value.And also camera Exposure Compensation does this indoors.    Exposure Compensation affects both ambient and flash, together, but indoors with only insignificant ambient, it mostly just affects flash.  But it does affect ambient, i.e., it does change the P mode shutter/aperture values to be other values. However in camera M mode, Exposure Compensation will not change shutter/aperture values (affects the meter you see, but M mode sets the controls manually), but it will affect TTL flash, so in that sense, it is Flash Compensation.  If both Flash compensation on the flash, and Exposure Compensation in camera, are both on (non-zero values), they will add at the flash.The 1/60 second is Minimum Shutter Speed with Flash, see menu E2.    Default is 1/60.  To explain, if you turn the flash off, an exposure indoors might be maybe  1/2 second f/5. (where you need flash).     Reach up and turn the flash on, and shutter changes to 1/60 minimum. Because, you are using flash, and you do not need it slower. This may appear to be a "max" (then), but is a Minimum, since the light only meters 1/2 second.  You have to go out into brighter light for it to meter more.   And Slow Sync mode or Rear Sync mode will keep it at the metered 1/2 second.  This all applies to camera P and A modes (not to camera M or S modes).  In camera M mode, you can set any shutter speed you want (up to Maximum sync speed, 1/250 second).  The shutter speed affects continuous ambient light, does not affect the flash. And (a very different subject, not recommended indoors, nor for normal work, and I should not even mention it), menu E1 and Auto FP will allow "flash" at any faster shutter speed like 1/8000 second (but camera P mode will try its hardest to ignore Auto FP, you have to get to maximum aperture like f/22 for it to trigger on). This is an extremely different mode (not speedlight flash) and you have to be outdoors in sunlight to be able to meter faster shutter speeds.You may want the shutter faster than minimum 1/60 however, to keep out more of the orange incandescent room light.    Setting it near maximum sync speed (1/250 second) is the common thing to do for studio work (where all is controlled).  Snapshots might sometimes like a bit of the orange warming however.      Camera M mode will allow that, any syncable shutter speed.   The flash is not affected by shutter speed, it is much faster than the shutter, so it never cares about shutter. But longer shutter speed allows in more of the ambient light, which indoors, may be orange incandescent.  Same thing with high ISO, with flash indoors, you probably get a lot of orange incandescent.</blockquote>

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