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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 128353" data-attributes="member: 12496">Yes, exactly right.&nbsp;&nbsp; SU-4 mode is triggered by the flash of any other Manual mode flash.&nbsp; It is rather sensitive, so very low (minimum) triggering power works fine in normal situations.&nbsp;&nbsp; If any issue, you can rotate the flash body so the sensor on the side (by battery door) aims towards that triggering flash.&nbsp;&nbsp; I have achieved 132 feet that way, SU-4 triggered by 1/128 power on the camera (not in direct sun).&nbsp;&nbsp; But this wont be much issue in most normal size rooms, esp not if triggered from working power level flashes.You also have to set remote flash power level in SU-4 Manual mode.&nbsp; You would set say 1/2 or 1/8 power level there, to be correct and useful to your picture.&nbsp;&nbsp; Long recycle time could be batteries, but probably it just means it is using near maximum power. You did not mention setting power level in the remote, for your purpose.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; If whatever power used overexposes, set its power level lower, until you see that it does what you want, gives the result you want.&nbsp;&nbsp; Lower power level will recycle faster.Elaboration:&nbsp; SU-4 mode has both an Auto mode and a Manual mode.&nbsp; Auto mode means it&nbsp; starts and stops to follow the triggering flash, which 1) was a film TTL&nbsp; technique, quite different than iTTL, and 2) you are not trying to get a&nbsp; proper exposure with your trigger anyway...&nbsp; So, without doubt, you&nbsp; always want use SU-4 Manual mode, and set manual power level in the&nbsp; flash unit (as you see is needed for your scene and picture result).SU-4 is a great way to trigger it, and the triggering camera internal flash might even be useful for fill flash in some cases (fill level would be at lesser intensity, a stop or so less).But other ways to trigger it (adding stuff) would be a&nbsp; radio trigger, a transmitter on camera hot shoe, and a receiver on the flash foot.&nbsp; This can be advantage at extreme distances, through opaque obstacles, in brightest sun, etc, but no advantage if what you are doing works.Or, you could add PC adapters to both flash foot and camera hot shoe to use PC sync cord.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 128353, member: 12496"] Yes, exactly right. SU-4 mode is triggered by the flash of any other Manual mode flash. It is rather sensitive, so very low (minimum) triggering power works fine in normal situations. If any issue, you can rotate the flash body so the sensor on the side (by battery door) aims towards that triggering flash. I have achieved 132 feet that way, SU-4 triggered by 1/128 power on the camera (not in direct sun). But this wont be much issue in most normal size rooms, esp not if triggered from working power level flashes. You also have to set remote flash power level in SU-4 Manual mode. You would set say 1/2 or 1/8 power level there, to be correct and useful to your picture. Long recycle time could be batteries, but probably it just means it is using near maximum power. You did not mention setting power level in the remote, for your purpose. If whatever power used overexposes, set its power level lower, until you see that it does what you want, gives the result you want. Lower power level will recycle faster. Elaboration: SU-4 mode has both an Auto mode and a Manual mode. Auto mode means it starts and stops to follow the triggering flash, which 1) was a film TTL technique, quite different than iTTL, and 2) you are not trying to get a proper exposure with your trigger anyway... So, without doubt, you always want use SU-4 Manual mode, and set manual power level in the flash unit (as you see is needed for your scene and picture result). SU-4 is a great way to trigger it, and the triggering camera internal flash might even be useful for fill flash in some cases (fill level would be at lesser intensity, a stop or so less). But other ways to trigger it (adding stuff) would be a radio trigger, a transmitter on camera hot shoe, and a receiver on the flash foot. This can be advantage at extreme distances, through opaque obstacles, in brightest sun, etc, but no advantage if what you are doing works. Or, you could add PC adapters to both flash foot and camera hot shoe to use PC sync cord. [/QUOTE]

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